syjusun

Epilogas / Final Exam

2009-12-08T08:28:00.000-08:00

As jau penkta diena Dubline ir pradedu atsigauti po sutiktuviu hehe. Amerikos orouostu pareigunai, kas penkias minutes labai garsiai skelbiantys saugotis teroristiniu pavoju, neleido pamiegoti plus nekantravimas pamatyti draugus. Nerasysiu isvadu ir pasiulymu, na gal tik viena - isvaziuokit pakeliauti, bent trumpam toliau nuo Europos - i isskridusia Azija, grazuola N. Zelandija, super JAV didmiescius ar beprotiska Pietu Amerika. a?

So I'm back and almost recovered from welcome back party:) No long stories or smart conclusions, just one thing - go travelling outside Europe, even for a short time, it's so different out there.

Pridedu issamu keliones zemelapi su desimt tukstanciu myliu paklaida:)

Alice: If I had a world of my own, everything would be nonsense. Nothing would be what it is because everything would be what it isn't. And contrary-wise; what it is it wouldn't be, and what it wouldn't be, it would. You see?

to be continued...

Namo / is this it?

2009-11-30T13:38:00.001-08:00

"Griztu namo, kol saule dar nenusileido" paskutines dienas galvoje skambejo daznokai. Pasiilgau visu... Neprisiverciu daugiau parasyti apie poilsi Karibuose, todel kaip visada i pagalba ateis nuotraukos.

Garifuna kaimas skambiu pavadinimu El Triunfo de la Cruz, kur buvau vienintelis turistas tarp juodaodziu vietiniu, snekanciu sava kalba, turinciu savo religija ir paprocius, skirtingus nuo kitu hondurieciu. Valgiau krabu sriuba, vaiksciojau siukslina pakrante ir maudziausi skaidriame vandenyje.

Viena is Bay islands salu - lietingoji Utila. Vietiniai sneka stipriu akcentu pasudyta anglu kalba, o kelioms dienoms atvaziaves jaunimelis lieka metams ar daugiau. Rytais nardziau, vakarais ragavau roma ir klausiau vilcinsku dueto galvoje.

I cant force myself to write more about last days of a trip spent in Carribean coast. Like always photos will come to help.

Garifuna village named El Triunfo de la Cruz where I was only one tourist around. Old man holiday I had - tasty seafood, sunbathing, swimming and going for a walk.

One of the Bay Islands - rainy Utila where locals speak heavily accented english and many backpackers who came for few days are staying for a year or more instead. Diving every morning, tasting rum in evening, praying the rain finally stops and the ferry to the main land leaves.

Rytoj skrendu namo. Kelione ilgoka su nakvyne ant penkiu zvaigzduciu suoliuku Hiustono orouoste ir pilnos dienos eskursija New Jersey orouoste. Beje, Utiloje lietus pyle tris dienas non stop ir keltas i zemyna neplauke dvi dienas is eiles. Galvojau strigsiu ilgam. Paskutine diena pasirode saulute ir keltas. Dar viena - prezidento rinkimai vyko si savaitgali, bet taikiai ir graziai. Aciu, Honduras.

Per sostines i griuvesius / From city breaks to ruins

2009-11-21T16:52:00.000-08:00

Hondura nuo Panamos skiria trys pasieniai. Taupydamas laika, pasirinkau greitus, patogius ir brangesnius autobusus. Pirmoji atkarpa - i Kosta Rikos sostine, San Chose. Pasienio proceduros pasitaike greitos, pareigune, tarsi lietuviu buriai, grizdami is akropolio, uzsuktu daznai, be klausimu trinktelejo Kosta Rikos stampa.

Grazi salis - sodriai zalia tarsi prisikelelis Seime.

Is pradziu lekeme upes sleniu, veliau kukuruzu, cukrasvendriu bei kitu gerybiu laukais, artejant link San Chose autobusas ropojo aukstyn kalnais, apsiklojusiais ruko paklode.

Sostine pasitiko zvarbia vesuma, taksistai astronominemis kainomis, tad ilgokai teko deretis (deryboms sugaisau nemazai laiko ir kitose sostinese). Kosta Rika - brangoka salis, populiariausia turizmo vieta C. Amerikoje. Moteriske viesbutyje patare nesiblaskyti gatvemis sutemus, tad, uzkandes artimiausiame bufete, nuslinkau miegoti.

Ankstus rytas ir antrasis autobusas, sikart i Nikaragvos sostine, Managua. Pasienis - dulketas, talzomas kaitrios saules, begalines eiles. Salies per langa maciau minimaliai, nes prie lango sedejusi boba uztrauke uzuolaida ir visa kelia divyriskai miegojo.

Managua - miestas, kuriame turistui vaikscioti gatvemis, ypac vakare, nepatartina. Vakara praleidau nerealiame hostelyje, kur kolonkes dalino teisinga hip hopa, melynavo baseinas, o istorijomis dalinosi smagus gyventojai.

Eilini karta teko keltis anksciau nei saule (ir tai vadinasi atostogos) paskutiniam zygiui i Honduro sostine, Tegucigalpa. Manau, kad ir sio miesto mama negalejo istarti pavadinimo. Pasienis - super greitas, o kelione, lekiant sauletais kalnais, apzelusiais spygliuociais, neprailgo.

In three days I took the definition of the city break to the new level. To get to Honduras from Panama you have to cross three borders. To save time I chose fast and expensive buses. Getting to capital of Costa Rica, chilly San Chose, was easy, short queue at the border. The country is beautiful, the road ran through corn and sugarcane fields, close to San Chose the bus climbed foggy mountains.

Costa Rica is the number one place for tourism in C. America and the taxi drivers in the capital were really greedy, it took some time to agree reasonable price (same story in every capital). Advised in hotel not to wander around streets after dark, I had some food at the nearest place and went to sleep.

Early start to capital of Nicaragua, stuffy Managua. The dusty border and long queue to get the stamps.

Managua is infamous for being really dangerous place so I stayed in hostel. Cool place with pool, decent hip hop and nice people to chat to.

Early start again (and you call it holidays), easypeasy border and finally before lunch I arrived in the capital of Honduras, not possible to pronounce Tegucigalpa.

Tegucigalpa turistu nesutikau, todel zmones labai domisi: is kur tu? ar tau patinka Honduras? si claro, kalbina gatveje, spokso ir vel spokso. Aisku, tai nera didinga architektura ar triuksmingu naktiniu gyvenimu garsejantis miestas, bet pagrindine vakarieciu nesilankymo priezastis - politine padetis.

Kai dar pries metus pirkau bilietus, kariuomenes surengtas perversmas isvijo prezidenta is salies. Galvojau, kad per tiek laiko padetis normalizuosis. cha! Ismestas prezidentas grizo ir prisiglaude Brazilijos ambasadoje, miestuose vyksta protesto mitingai, jei tiketi mylima ziniasklaida - zudoma, saudoma ir skerdziama, o JAV net nerekomenduoja lankytis salyje. Maciau viena mitinga, pareigunus, apsiredziusius iseiginiais riausiu sarvais, bet jokiu bardaku. Sausio menesi, kai vyks naujieji rinkimai nekisciau i Hondura nosies, bet dabar padetis - rami.

Aisku, yra minusu - kartais naujoji valdzia uzdaro sienas dienai ar dviems, tikiuosi man `nepasiseks`. Tegucigalpa - varginga, daug pinigu prasanciu gatves vaiku, invalidu, net ir simpatiskos katedros centrine aikste `kvepinasi´ numyztais kampais.

Smagiai prasivaiksciojau pusdieni po centra, trugu, kur moteriskiu eile praeinant atidengineja po ranksluosciais pasleptus tortiliju kalnus, `laisves aleja` apsodinta amerikietiskais greito maitinimo restoranais.

Centrineje Amerikoje labai daug saunamuju ginklu. Aritmetika paprasta: vienetas apsauginio=vienetas saudykles (nepamirstant policijos ir armijos gatvese). Vienas krapsto nosi, pasikabines ant pilvo automata, kitas stovi isivaizduojamo bajavyko plakate, rankose tvirtai spausdamas vincesteri, saules akiniai ant nosies.

Bent jau revolveri turi kiekvienas, dar ir soviniu tuzinas aplink dirza. Todel nenustebau, kai atvykus i autobusu stoti vaziuoti i Copan Ruinas miesteli, is pradziu patikrino metalo detektoriumi, o pries lipant i autobusa nufotografavo.

There are no tourists in Tegucigalpa, at least I didn´t see any. Not much to see, it´s poor, loads of beggers but the main reason tourist don´t come here at the moment is political situation.

When I booked the flights a year ago the president of Honduras was kicked out from the country after military coup. I thought the things will be sorted soon. No way! The president came back and staying in the embassy of Brazil and if you believe in our press the cities cause of riots and killings are really dangerous. I saw protest meeting, police in riot gear but no violence whatsoever.

I wouldn´t go to Honduras in January when the election takes place but now it´s seems ok. There is only one thing - sometimes new goverment closes the border for a day or two but I hope when my plane leaves it´s not going to happen. People are really nice, asking where are you from? do you like Honduras? and stare all the time.

It´s shocking how many guns you see everywhere in Central America. Any security guard (I´m not talking about police and army on the streets) has one, some huge vinchesters like in cheap Hollywood movies, others revolvers with bullets on the belts. So I wasn´t suprised when getting a bus to Copan Ruinas first I was checked using metal detector and after the photo was taken.

Prie nedidelio kalnu miestuko isikures senasis maju miestas Copan (t.y. atvirksciai) pasitiko ant iejimo tvoros garsiai santykius besiaiskinanciomis macaws papugomis.

Buvau pirmasis lankytojas, tad gera pusvalandi teko garbe griuvesiais landzioti vienam be uzknisanciu organizuotu turu buriu. Ispudinga vieta, net ir aptrupejusi, lengva suprasti kodel pries daugeli simtmeciu uzklydes buras, nusipirkti streliu ar zoliu, pagalvodavo, kad ant sosto sedintis stiliovas karalius yra Dievas. Kaip visada neeilineje vietoje mane uzpuola zodziu badas, todel Copan apibudinsiu nuotraukomis.

Miesta gyventojai paliko likimo valiai, mokslininkai nezino tikslios priezasties, bet greiciausia gyventoju perteklius (juk visi nori gyventi Vilniuje) neleido normaliai egzistuoti. Toleliau esantis gyvenamasis kvartalas kietu pavadinimu Las Sepulturas isikures prie vandens istekliu ir i miesto istorijos pabaiga tapo geidziamiausia vieta gyventi.

Siuolaikinis miestukas su dulketomis, aukstyn zemyn besivoliojanciomis gatvemis, jaukia centrine aikste turistams siulo restoranus, suvenyru parduotuves ir viesbucius. Honduras - nebrangi salis, apsistoti gali uz penkius dolerius, pavalgyti uztenka triju. Turistine vieta, bet gyventoju ir atvykeliu simbioze pagirtina.

Vietiniai stipriosios lyties atstovai (atsiprasau uz politiskai nekorektiska issireiskima) augina usus, ant galvu uzsimauksline kauboju skrybeles, vairuoja dzipus, karts nuo karto prajoja ir vienisas raitelis.

Dailiosios lyties atstoves usu neaugina. Miestuka supa kukuruzu, tabako bei geros kavos plantacijos.

Vietinis maistas paprastas, todel pilva auginu mano taip megstamo meksikietisko maisto pagalba.

The old mayan ruins Copan greated with really loud macaws at the entrance. I was the first visitor and for half an hour I had ruins for myself.

It´s so cool when no one is around. As you know I have difficulties to describe amazing places so the photos will tell the story.

New mountain town next to the ruins is relaxed place to stay. It´s touristy but somehow it feels local place. The guys are sporting moustaches, wear cowboy hats, drive pickups.

Honduras is cheap country, the food is simple so I choose tasty mexican food.

The town is surrounded by tobacco, corn and coffee fields. Coffee is great and cigars are shit cause I don´t smoke it:).

Paskutine savaite (echh... ir jeee!) ilsesiuos Karibuose, kur linksminamasi skambant punta muzikai.

Kava ir apelsinai / Coffee and oranges

2009-11-16T16:50:00.000-08:00

Palikes niuru Panamos miesta, pakeites keleta autobusu (transporto priemones patogios, keliai tvarkingi), atsiduriau nedideliame mieste Herrera provincijoje - Chitre. Vis dar neatsistebiu salies vakarietiskumu.

Jaunimas, apsiredes tupu hip hopo ghetto styliumi, miestelio pakrasciuose issirikiave japonisku automobiliu salonai, domino ir macdonalds. I vieninteli Chitre esanti hosteli prisibelsti nepavyko, todel teko apsistoti viesbutyje.

Turistu nesimate, siaip nera ka veikti, zmones - super draugiski, siltomis sypsenomis. Kai nutariau apsilankyti salia esanti kaimuka Parita ir sedejau issiziojes mikruskeje, nezinodamas kur islipti, is pradziu vairuotojas, o po to ir visas keleiviu ekipazas isklausinejo ka noriu pamatyti ir issodino prie namo, kur gaminamos velnio kaukes.

Chitre apylinkes garseja triuksmingais festivaliais, ypac karnavalu. Galvojau isigyti kauke, bet jos velniskai dideles ir netilptu i kuprine, vaikscioti uzsimaukslinus ant galvos butu smagu, bet pasienio pareigunai, manau, neivertintu mano smaikstumo.

Chitre praleidau nakti, viesbutis brangokas, mieste vien parduotuves, tad kita ryta isskubejau ieskoti geros kavos puodelio.

Leaving rainy Panama city, taking few buses (the roads and buses are comfortable) I reached small town in Herrera province called Chitre. Still can`t believe how westernized Panama is - youth wearing stupid hip hop ghetto style clothes, new japanese cars garages in suburbs of town, domino and mcdonalds.

The one and only hostel in Chitre was closed and I had to go to hotel. No tourists around, nothing much to do, people are very nice with warm smiles. I went to village called Parita next to Chitre where devil masks for carnival are made.

The masks look deadly but I wouldn`t be able to fit it in backpack and wear it on the head while travelling would be fun but one problem - crossing the borders. I spent a night in Chitre and next morning left to look for the best cup of coffee in Panama.

Keliones metu supratau, kad man labai patinka kalnai. Boquete krito i aki is pirmo zvilgsnio - i sleni leidziantis geltonu, mokykliniu amerikietisku autobusu, kalnai pasitiko vaivorykstes sypsena, sodria zaluma bei gaiviu aromatu.

Pancho, prie centrines aikstes isikurusio hostelio seimininkas, pagavo einant gatve ir pasisiule apsistoti pas ji.

Nereali vieta - sienos apklijuotos ivairiausiais plakatais, palinkejimais, iskarpomis is zurnalu, kieme auga apelsinmedis, tvora aplipe plastmasiniai ir moliniai herojai, kampe budriu zvilgsniu aplinka stebi Jezus.

Pancho - funky personazas, kalbantis simto zodziu per sekunde greiciu ir nuolat besisypsantis. Paklausus kur geriausia prasivaikscioti kalnais, Pancho, giliai ikvepes, pradeda: ciasiaureciapietuspaejusdukilometrusgerakavinevisadalaikykiskaires. Po poros minuciu nebeklausai ka jis tauskai, tiesiog zvengi linguodamas galva, o Pancho, beje, vis dar neikvepes, beria toliau, issisiepes iki ausu. hehe.

Boquete - kavos ir apelsinu sostine. Apelsinmedziai auga pakelese, kava plantacijose, karts nuo karto augalai i dangu stiebiasi viens salia kito.

Vaisiai - saldus, kava - gardi, klimatas - idealus, kainos nesikandzioja, tad daznai sutiktas praeivis vietoj iprasto `buena`taria `hello`. Nemazai pensininku amerikieciu, isigyje namus pakalneje, isikure miestuke, parduotuveje platus pasirinkimas amerikietisko alaus ir ivairiu maistu. Beje, paragavau Panamoje pagaminto guinnesso, fuu, sudukas skarbonkeje, primena gira su menku alaus prieskoniu.

Panamoje dauguma gyventoju metisai (kaip bebutu keista toks nearistokratiskas derinys stebuklingu budu sukure nemazai simpatisku dailiosios lyties atstoviu), Boquete knibzda Guaymi indenais, moterys ir mergaites pasipuosusios tradicinemis suknelemis, vyrukai ugninio vandens kvapu.

Maistas, deja, nekelia susizavejimo. Aisku, rasi prabangu juros gerybiu ar prancuziska restorana, taciau tradicinis maistas (sutikti keliautojai nuliudino, kad visoje Centrineje Amerikoje tas pats) - pupeles ir ryziai. Valgau vietiniu bufetuose, sociai ir pigiai, vaisiai - tai ka rasi namuose prekybos centruose.

Siandien su kiviu pora is hostelio prasiejom vienu is kalnu keliu, kuris vingiavo kalnais, atograzu misku, laukais bei purvais. Nusigauti greiciau pirmyn ir atgal teko tranzuoti, pavyko be problemu. Boquete - stipri vieta ir virtualioje uzrasu knyguteje dedu riebu pliusa kaip idealiai vietai gyventi isejus i pensija. Gerti kava ryte, sultis pietums ir vakarienei, vaikscioti kalnais, o atsibodus - uz poros valandu masina laukia balto smelio papludimiai prie Ramiojo vandenyno. Panama yra labai grazi:)

I like the mountains mucho and Boquete - the capital of coffee and oranges, small mountain town is a great place. The climate is ideal, prices not too high, the Pacific ocean two hours away by car so many retired americans chose to live here. In the shop you can buy different american beer or food, on the street instead of usual `buena` some people would say `hello`. The hostel I`m staying in is next to the main square, funky place - walls are covered with newspapers, photos, maps, in the back yars the orange tree is growing, in the corner Jesus looking after guests.

The owner of hostel - cool guy Pancho, who speaks so fast you afraid he forgets to breathe, knows the area very well and always ready to help. Panama`s population is mainly mestizo (not so glamorous mix but there are many cute girls), here in Boquete you`ll see many Guaymi indians. The orange trees are everywhere, the coffee growing in farms, some place they just grow next to each other.

Coffee is the best in Panama, oranges so sweet but the food in Panama in general is not good. Tradicional meal (I was told it`s like that everywhere in Central America dam it!) is beans and rice. To eat I go to local buffet, food there is cheap. Of course there are expensive seafood and french restaurants. Tried guinness made in Panama, it`s very bad, don`t ever buy it.

Today I and couple of kiwis from hostel went hiking in mountains. To get there we had to catch a ride to start of the trek and back, it was easy, people are really nice. The path led through fields, rain forest, rivers and mud and mud.

My imaginery ipod in the mountains would like to play trip and hop.

Panama yra labai niuri / Panama at last

2009-11-12T11:26:00.000-08:00

Idealiame pasaulyje Kolumbija ir Panama jungtu zemynus skrodziantis Pan-American greitkelis. Deja, smagusis kelias nutruksta Panamos puseje ties Yaviza miesteliu, pakildamas is asfalto uz 150 kiometru Kolumbijoje. Priezastis - didysis brolis JAV nenori patogaus susisiekimo budo tarp Pietu ir Centrines Amerikos, nes tipo nelegalus imigrantai ir narkotikai lengviau pasieks ´svajoniu´sali. Teritorija, neapdovanota greitkeliu, vadinasi Darien plysiu ir ja, knibzdancia partyzanais, kontrabandininkais ir kitais neklauzadomis, keliauti vienam nepatariama. Skristi is Kartagenos i Panama - brangu del astronominiu oro uosto mokesciu, o plaukimas jachta, trunkantis kelias dienas, prarytu didziaja dali mano likusio biudzeto. Pasirinkau pigiausia ir ko gero idomiausia varianta.

Colombia and Panama have a land border but the Pan-American highway running through the continents terminates near a town called Yaviza in Panama before starting again 150 km further on in Colombia. Big brother USA doesn´t want the road to go all the way cause of illegal immigration and drug traffic. The transportation break is called Darien gap and some parts of it is really dangerous to try to cross it by yourself. The flight from Cartagena is expensive cause of high airport taxes. Getting by sail boat for few days even more pricey. So I chose the cheapest way and I´m proud to say the most interesting one.

Naktinis autobusas i Turbo, miesteli prie Karibu juros, ´pamalonino´garsia salsa ir nuolatiniu kratymu, purtymu bei sukiojimu kalnu keliais. Turbo (geras pavadinima, sudina vieta) atsiduriau anksti ryte, nusipirkes bilieta i lancha (greitoji valtis), kelias valandas pralaukiau mini uoste, gurksnodamas kava ir stengdamasis neuzmigti.

Prasta vieta, daugybe siuksliu, pinigu prasytojai, gangsteriais (bent jau 5 centais) save isivaizduojantys uoste dirbantys pacukai, atliekas vandenyje rusiuojantys pelikanai, burbciojantys po nosimi: maistas putinas maistas putinas.

Kelione i Capurgana, kaimuka toliau pakranteje link Panamos, uztruko pora valandu, lancha skrido kaip bite, skrosdama bangas, vis pakildavo i ora ir, sustingus mini sekundei, pilvu trenkdavosi i vandeni. Po ´smagios´keliones autobusu toks dauzymas mano vestibiuliarini aparata nuzude galutinai, o pilvo organai ´sukrito´i kulnus. Capurgana negalvojau pasilikti, bet lektuvas turejo isskristi tik po poros dienu ir, itikintas kaimuke gyvenancio Joseph is Havaju, apsistojau jo hostelyje. Capurgana, pasirodo, geriausia vieta aplankyta Kolumbijoje.

Pagrindine transporto priemone - arkliukai bei dviraciai (birbia du motociklai, bet ju nori atsikratyti).

Turistai beveik vien is Kolumbijos, pagrindiniame papludimyje vaizda gadina keletas dideliu viesbuciu, bet siaip gyvenimas juda letai, zmones sveikinasi gatveje, sauguma garantuoja kareiviai, automatus atmestinai pasikabine uz nugaros.

As gyvenau toliau nuo centro didziuliame kambaryje su buriu drieziuku, ivairiu dydziu vabzdziu ir bailia varle duse. Salia esantis akmenuotas papludimys kaip ir baseinas su vaizdu i pakrante priklause man vienam (sezonas dar neprasidejo).

Po dvieju dienu gero maisto ir skaidrios juros dietos anksti ryte lancha nusikraciau i Puerto Obaldia,pirma kaimuka Panamos puseje. Daug kareiviu, vargingi pastatai, tiesiog vieta uzsitikrinti stampa pase ir uzsiregistruoti skrydziui. Avialiniju ofise, t.y. darzinej, diedukas negalejo patiketi, kad mano pavarde Lukosevicius, jo padejejas karuciu nugabeno lagaminus i pagaliau paskutine lancha, nuplukdziusia i Tubualu, sala, kurioje isitaises artimiausias órouostas´.

Visa teritorija atrodo taip:
Laukiamasis

Tualetas

Sala priklauso Kuna indenams, kurie kaip tik tuo metu smagiai kvatodami trauke tinklus. Priejes seniunas, akis slepiantis po terminatoriaus akiniais ir pasidabines iseiginiais auliniais, is visu penkiu keleiviu pareikalavo vieno dolerio orouosto mokescio.

Pradejo lyti, atskrido nedidukas lektuvas, pilotai patare sestis priekyje, nes nuo vidurio sedynes buvo sulytos. Pakilus i ora, antrasis pilotas laikrasciais dziovino vandeni praleidzianti priekini stikla, lektuviuka mete i sonus, as po tokios kekekekeliones lanchomis susirangiau miegoti ir akis praplesiau jau Panamos sostineje Panamoje.

First I took a night bus to Turbo, seaside town on Caribbean coast. Cool name but the place is a shithole and waiting there for a lancha (fast boat) to Capurgana (village on the coast closer to Panama) was boring.

The boat is really fast and very often it flies in the air for millisecond before crashing into the water. After bumpy bus ride all night the journey on the water twisted my stomach completely. Capurgana is by far the best place I visited in Colombia.

It´s so relaxed, no cars (two motorbikes in whole village), friendly people, beautiful beaches, good food.

Main beach has a fair share of ugly big hotels but near the hostel I stayed the beach with the pool was totally empty.

Had a blast and after two days I took a lancha again to get to Puerto Obaldia, military village on Panamian side. Ugly, get your stamp and register for a flight place.

The last lancha to Tubualu, the island where the nearest airport is. It´s difficult to call it airport. Two shacks - one for waiting lounge, smaller for a bathroom. The island belongs to Kuna indians who were fishin there and one of the indians asked for a dollar airport tax.

It started to rain, small plane arrived, half of the seats inside were wet, the water was running through front window but somehow we made to Panama city.

Panama ilga laika kvepavo po sunkiu JAV padu (kanalo valdyma jankiai vietiniams perdave tik pries desimt metu), tad miestas pergrustas mcdonaldais, valiuta - doleriai, cia vadinami balboa.

Keista po Kolumbijos gatvese nematyti kareiviu ir policijos ant kiekvieno kampo. Atsizvelgiant i tai, kad elektronikos prekes ir smutkes kainuoja kapeikas Panama prikimsta prekybos centrais. Alkoholis - nerealiai pigus (gero romo butelis tekainuoja penkis eurus), transportas ir maistas kisenes taip pat netustina.

Hostelis, kuriame apsistojau, stukso verslo rajone, tad kaip ir visur aplink plastikines korteles ant kaklu, blackberry rankose, kinieciu restoranai (cia daug gyvenanciu azijieciu) ir heinekeno reklamos baruose. Trumpa eskursija i kanala, kur pries keleta savaiciu praslinkes storasiknis laivas sumokejo rekordini 375 tukstanciu doleriu mokesti.

Senamiestis - simpatiskas, nutrupeje kolonijiniai pastatai, ryskios spalvos.

Deja, nuolat po pietu pliaupiantis niurus lietus neleido issamiau paklaidzioti.

Panama lived under heavy USA influence for a long time (panamians got the rights to the canal only ten years ago) so city is full of mcdonalds, the currency used is dollars (called baboa). Merchandise from around the world is sold very cheaply in Panama city and shopping centres are on every corner.

Alcohol, transport and food is cheap too. The hostel I´m staying in is in business district and it´s like everywhere in the world, doesn´t matter if it´s IFSC or London City.

I went to see the canal where some fat ass boat paid a record 375 thousand dollars tax to use it.

Panama is just allright but the oldtown is really cool - colonial buildings, bright colours.

Unfortunately heavy rain that starts every day at lunch time wouldn´t let me to explore it more.

Eurovizijoje sikart Panama atstovaus du biciukai:

Kelyje / Road trip

2009-11-08T12:08:00.001-08:00

Pasinacionalines Tayrona parke, savaitgali grizau i Kartagena atsvesti Helovyna. Pasitaike audringas, vakarelis nedideliame bare, kur susirinko vietiniai manga gerbejai. Keisti kostiumai, kolumbietiskas rokas ir daug alaus. Issunkes serotonino atsargas iki paskutines molekules, kelias dienos po to skaiciau knygas, vaiksciojau po miesta ir svarsciau ka daryti toliau. Pazistami Dom ir Belinda, keliaujantis senuku Wolksvagen autobusiuku is Kanados i Cile daugiau kaip metus, pasiule vaziuoti i antra pagal dydi Kolumbijos miestas Medelina siek tiek nepakeliui i Panama, bet avantiurai pasirasiau nesvarstes.

Colombians like to celebrate Helloween and I came back to Cartagena for a weekend to go out. Crazy time, party in tiny bar where local manga fans met. Strange costumes, colombian rock music and rivers of beer. I felt like shit afterwards and stayed in Cartagena for few days reading books and thinking what to do next. The guys I met in hostel before Dom and Belinda (driving all the way from Canada to Chile in funky retro Wolksvagen van) offered to join them on the trip to Medellin. It was little bit out of the way to Panama but I decided to do it.

Keliones metu isitaisiau ant sofkutes, patogiausias budas keliauti - nusnaudus posma, spoksai jaukiai isitaises i prabegancius kaimus, laukus, palmiu silus. Pakeleje sutikti vietiniai sypsojosi pilna burna, mojavo ir sauke. Pora kartu sustabde budrus armijos pareigunai, vieni pasiule ginkluota palyda, kiti issizioje varte lietuviska pasa.

Pirma diena pasiekem Tolu, nedideli miesteli prie juros. Nusukus ne i ta kelia, kelione uztruko ir tiksla pasiekem jau i vakara. Kurorte ilsisi vietiniai, turistai is uzjuriu neuzsuka, viesbuciai - brangoki, priemiesciai - nuskure, bakuzes surestos is nieko, pakeleje lauza deginantys pypliai. Sutemo, sukom i siaura, duobeta keliuka salia juros, kol pagaliau pasitaike cabana (vasarnamis) pakranteje. Kaina kandziojosi, bet salia gyvenanti varginga seima, isgriovusi tvora, pasiule apsinakvoti ju kieme.

Burys vaiku, sunu, menka trobele ir kelios pasiures. Nerealiai draugiski zmones nesutiko paiimti pinigu. Miegoti isitaisiau hamake pasiureje, salia ose jura, atnesdama salstelejusi srutu kvapa (labai siukslina).

Nakti koncerta pradejo sunys, paryciais estafete pereme gaidziai plus be sustojimo atakuojantys uodu buriai. Po bemieges nakties ryte senukas neuzsivede, pliaupe lietus, permirkes smelis neleido uzstumti masinos. Dom stebuklingu budu sutvarke problema ir, atsisveikine su seimininku, nubirbejom toliau. Antra diena dauguma laiko snaudziau ant megstamos sofutes, judejom link kalnu, zali, apsiruke sleniai pasiule vesesni ora.

Keliu leke sunkvezimiu karavanai, viename is furistu viesbuciu ir apsistojom. Jokiu uodu, sunu ar gaidziu, maloni vesuma ir saldus miegas. Paskutine keliones diena kelias vinguriavo tarp kalnu aukstyn zemyn, pakeles pievose zole rupsnojo karves alpinistes, o uzeigose kava saldinom svieziu pienu. Praleke lietinga pieno ir surio karalyste pries pietus pasiekem triuksminga Medelina.

During the trip I comfortably sat on the sofa and it is the best way to travel - you can have a nap (I had many:) or enjoy the wiev through the window in comfort. On the first day we reached Tolu - small seaside town. It´s not far away from Cartagena but roads are complicated and it took a day to get there. People seeing yellow van smiled, waved and shouted a lot.

Tolu is the place where colombians go for a break, no western tourists around and the hotels were not cheap. It was getting dark and we tried the road going next to the sea looking for a camping place. We found expensive cabana (summer house) but poor family living next to it offered to stay in their yard (smashing the fence to drive in the van). Super friendly people didn´t want any money for that. Loads of kids, dogs, tiny house. I slept in a hammock but the load barking at night and Colombian idol competition between roosters in early morning (not forgetting little suckers mosquitoes and smelly dirty sea) didn´t leave a chance to get some sleep. In a morning a van didn´t start but Dom did a magic trick and yellow Wolskvagen came to life.

On the second day most of the time I slept on my favourite sofa, we reached the mountains, the green and fogy valleys offered a pleasant cool. The road was crowded with trucks and we stopped in one of the hotel for the truckers. No dogs, roosters or little mosquito scumbags and sweet sleep.

On the last day the road led through the mountains, gangs of cows on the green grass fields and fresh milk with the coffee in roadside cafes. Flying through rainy milk and cheese country in the afternoon we reached noisy Medellin.

Medelinas devyniasdesimtaisiais garsejo kaip pavojinga narkobiznio sostine su Pablo Escobar priesakyje. Dabar tai tiesiog milijoninis, pergrustas miestas, kur turistai daznai neuzsuka. Keletas parku (viename is ju pririkiuota zymiojo Fernando Botero storuliu skulpturu), baznyciu ir nesibaigiantis turgus centre.

Cia pardavejai pirkejus pasitinka prie duru, prasisuke pasiulymus ir nuolaidas rekia i mikrafona, kiti tai sekmingai ir labai garsiai daro be technikos pagalbos. Garsu ir balsu kakafonija bei padirbtu versaciu ir armaniu naujosios, blizgancios kolekcijos. Zmones - super draugiski, apsistojus neprabangiame rajone, kur turistu nematyti, sulauki daugybe zvilgsniu. Gardi, pigi kava, naujas megstamas vaisius - granadilla, kurio suvalgau maisus.

Vietiniai - latina, tamsiaakes mergaites stipriai parausvintais skruostais ir aptemptais drabuzius. Neuzsukom i turtinguju rajonas, bet ir prasiejus kaiminysteje supranti, kad per kaledas ir gimtadienius prie silikono kiosko nusidriekia kilometrines eiles.

Siandien Medeline lyja, Dom ir Belinda lieka mieste, o as kraunuosi smutkes ir po truputi judu link Panamos.

Medellin in 90-ties was infamous as being drug trafficking capital of the world with Pablo Escobar in front lines. Now it is just big, noisy and busy city with few nice parks (one is the home for famous Fernando Botero´s fatties), churches and the city centre basically is one huge mix of market and shopping centres.

Shop assistants wait for the clients at the front and everybody shouting their offers or discounts. Coffee is really good and cheap, new favourite fruit - granadilla is consumed in large quantities.

People more latina type, dark eyed girls with heavy make up and tiny dresses. Not many tourists around, specially in the place we are staying so people are very friendly. It´s raining in Medellin today and I´m packing my backpacks. Dom and Belinda are staying in city, I finally will try to get to Panama.

Geltoname senuke muzika, deja, neskambejo. Jei tureciau galimybe, garsiakalbiai keliones metu plysautu taip:
en la mañana

en la tarde

en la noche

uno mas?

2009-10-30T07:33:00.001-07:00

´Laiko nesustabdyt´trauke storuliu - operisto ir reperisto duetas. Jis, bjaurybe, lekia zuikio, paklaikusiomis akimis automobilio sviesu nuspalvintame kelyje, greiciu. Liko menesis ir as nezinau ka veiksiu. Kazkokiu budu reikia nusigauti i Panama (skristi ar plaukti visa kelia laivu per brangu), po to - autobusu i Hondura, is kurio gruodzio pradzioje skrendu namo. Keliones metu sukuriau ir nubraukiau milijonus planu, bet planai tam i kuriami, kad juos keisti ar ne?

One month to go and I´ve no clue what am going to do. I have somehow to get to Panama (flight or boat all the way are way too expensive), from there by bus to Honduras where I have a flight back home first day of December. I planned last four weeks many times and changed it again and again. I guess the best plan is go with the flow.

Savaitgali patusines su beprociais australais, gyvenanciais ivairiuose zemynuose, kelioms dienoms grizau i gamta. Parque Nacional Tayrona - kvapa gniauziantys balto smelio papludimiai, siekiantys atograzu misko garbanomis besididziuojancias kalvas, prie skaidriu tarsi antikorupcijos komisija Karibu juros vandenu. Kartagenos autobusu stotis isikurusi priemiestyje, i kuri reikia gautis miesto autobusu (hostelyje patare sestis butent i metrocar autobusa, nes pigesniuose negeri dedes gali atimti turta). Priemiesciai - tragiski, siuksliu kruvos, ismatu upes, skarmaluoti vietiniai, duobetos gatves ir t.t. Stotyje pasigavau reikiama autobusa, kuris turejo isvaziuoti tuoj pat. Turejo.. Soferiukas kokia valanda suko ratus aplink stoti, skardziabalsis konduktorius plysavo iki uzkimimo, kol surinkus pilna dardala pajudejom link Santa Marta. Pusiaukeleje, pakeitus autobusa, istorija pasikartojo. Santa Martoje duona pardavinejantis diedukas padejo susirasti tinkama mikruske iki parko vartu. Spejau laiku - uz pusvalandzio parko vartai butu uzdaryti.

Parke baltuoja keletas papludimiu, dviejuose galima apsistoti, as pasirinkau tolimesni Cabo san Juan, iki kurio teko zingsniuoti valanda tamsiu misko keliuku, pasisvieciant telefonu. Pagrindinis papludimis, saugomas uolu, keletas pastatu, vieta palapinems, restoranas, kioskas, arkliu ir asiliuku ansamblis, sunu kvartetas ir burys keliautoju.

Penkios minutes siauru misko takeliu veda i kita papludimi (ten maziausia bangu ir smagiausia plaukioti), dar petakas - nuogaliu papludimys, kur nera zmoniu, bet maudytis Adomo kostiumu nepatartina, nes bangos tasko be gailescio, sviesdamos i smelio/zvyro dugna.

Party weekend in Cartagena and after I went to Parque Nacional Tayrona. Cartagena´s bus station is in city´s suburbs so I had to get a town bus from centre. The suburbs are really poor, garbage and shit on every corner and in the water. Argentina was brilliant for bus service and I forgot how messy South America can be. I was assured the bus will leave straight away but it took an hour circling round the station trying to get more people in before we left to Santa Marta. Same thing happened when I changed the bus on the way. Luckily I made to the park gates just before it closed. There are few silly beautiful white sand beaches surrounded by rain forest hills by clear Caribbean sea but only in two it is possible to stay. I chose the furthest one - Cabo san Juan and walked there in the dark through the forest. Cabo has a main beach with place for camping and hammocks, few buildings, restaurant, mini shop, gang of dogs, band of horses and donkeys plus bunch of backpackers. Five minutes away by walk there is quiet beach where calm sea is the best for swimming, five more - naked beach, no people around.

Mano grafomanijos rasineliai paremti paprasta aritmetika - dazniausia raidemis aplipinta formule teispaudzia du plus du, kartais issteniu x ir y. Parka ´nupiesiu´ pirmoko lygio sarasu.

Juodas sarasas

Oras
Papludimiams, kaip Lietuvos biudzetui lituku, mirtinai reikia saules. Islepinta princese pasirode vos viena diena. Todel ir skaidrus vanduo, ypac taskomos stipraus vejo, pasidenge nematomu sydu.

Kainos
Maista bei isgerimus i papludimi atgabena arkliai ir asiliukai. Manau, jie neblogai uzdirba, nes kainos - kosmines, dvigubai brangiau nei Kartagenoj. Siek tiek atsinesiau maisto kuprineje, bet as ne keturkojis ir teko islaidauti.

Zmones
Amerikieciu kruva, rekianti ir skanduojanti pries isgeriant kiekviena alaus stikline. Ir jie vis dar nesupranta kodel ju nemegsta?

Nuobodybe
Guleti an smelio, stengiantis idegti kiekvieno kuno milimetra, atsibosta po sekundes, o daugiau pramogu kaip ir nera.

Dede Miegas
Hamakai sukabanti salia vienas kito centimetro atstumu, tad kiekviena karta, besisukdamas ant kito sono, trenkiesi i kaimyna. Kaimynas atsilygina tuo paciu.

oi kaip as megstu skustis haha

Sveciu sarasas

Gyvunijos pasaulyje
Pora miniatiuriniu suniuku, diena snaudzianciu pavesyje, naktimis skardziais balseliais gasdinanciu apstulbusius krabus.

Driezai sprinteriai tabaluojanciomis uodegomis, skubantys pasislepti zoleje (ne visada pavyksta).

Neklauzados bezdziones, lauzancios sakas aukstai medziuose prie parko vartu. Simtai violetiniu krabu su pakeltais ´grebliais´ gynybineje pozoje, treptelejus koja tipenantys sleptis urvuose. Pauksciai, suraitantys tokias vokalines partijas, kad Mamontovui is gedos eziukas nulinktu. Skruzdziu armijos, gabenancios lapus daugiabuciu statybai.

Zmones
Sutikau pora pazistamu, prisnekejom upes, kol isjungus generatoriu papludimys eina miegoti.

Oras
Papludimiai, atslinkus vakarui ir sulijoms grasinant audra, nusidazo niuriu saldumu.

Griuvesiai
Kopimas i kalva, kur 5 amziuje isikure ciabuviu kaimelis. Dabar tai - griuvesiai, pora bakuziu, indenu seima, asiliukas ir arklys.

Dede Miegas
Kai nepavyksta uzmigti, visada galima paklausyti juros atliekamos simfonijos.

I´ll present Parque Nacional Tayrona with the help of simple lists

Black list

Weather
Sun showed up only once. The beach without it is like Ireland without guinness and knackers.

Prices
All the food and drink is brought by horses and donkeys. I guess they get paid well cause everything is double price.

People
Group of americans shouting and chanting everytime they drank a glass of beer. Enough said.

Boredom
I´m not big fan of lying on the beach all day trying to improve my tan. You can´t even rent a snorkeling gear there.

Sleeping arrangements
Hammocks are so close to each other and everytime you turn around the neighborhood will feel it for sure.

Guest list

Animal planet
Two puppies sleeping in the shade all day and frightening the shit out of poor crab at night.

Fast geckos running away to the safety.

Army of ants busy bringing the stuff for construction (no recession here). Hundreds of blue crabs watching you from distance ready to hide in the holes. Monkeys high in the trees near the park entrance silently running around.

People
I met some people I know and we had long conversation before the generator was shut and beach went to sleep.

Weather
The beaches look darkly sweet in evening with black clouds trying to reach the water.

Ruins
Short hike up to the hill where village was started 15 hundred years ago. Now it´s the place for ruins, couple of huts, indian family, horse and donkey.

Sleeping arrangements
After you kicked your neighbor and he/she returned the favor the sea simphony always helps you to sleep.

This time for your ears only kind of hip colombian music. Me myself and I like it.

Geltonu plytu miesto magija / Magic of yellow bricktown

2009-10-22T18:20:00.000-07:00

Strigau Kolumbijoj. Planavau jau si savaitgali plaukti i Panama, bet Kartagena tarsi supanciojo ryskiaspalviais, nematomais siulais. Vienas is -iausiu miestu kelioneje, nors ir labai turistinis, taciau architektura, zmones ir gyvenimo ritmas nubraukia minusus. Senamiesti juosianti 11 kilometru ilgio gynybine siena kazkada saugojo nuo izuliu piratu puolimo, dabar tai tarsi zenklas, zymintis turistu zona. Ju cia daugybe - gringo ir kolumbieciu, prekeiviai issijuose vaiko abi grupes, siulydami suvenyru, apyrankiu, krepsiu, kokainu ir kitu suduku.

Kolonijiniai pastatai - kai kurie atnaujinti, kiti nutrupejusiu makiazu svyti Kolumbijos veliavos spalvomis, dominuoja geltona. Apsistojau salia senamiescio esanciame rajone, kur peciais trinasi vietiniu namai, pigus hosteliai, restoranai, turgus, valkataujantys sunys, benamiai, stalai, prie kuriu virve pritvirtinti mobilus telefonai, siulo pigius pokalbius, neturintiems aparato, sulciu ir maisto kioskai (laimi gardziausios lulo sultys), etc. Charakteringa vieta.

Hostelyje gyvena papuga, vezle su dviems mazais vezliukais, pora sunu ( baltas visiskas kibiras, nuolatos lojo bjaurybe) ir zuvu gauja akvariume, tarakono saldytuve neiskaiciuoju.

Cia susirinko smagi kompanija is angliskai kalbanciu saliu, su jais ir leidau laika. Tradiciniai vakariniai pasivaiksciojimai rajonu ieskant skaniausio gatves maisto (kulinarija labai pigi ir saldi, ivairus saldestai is dideliu stiklainiu, ant groteliu kepta mesa ar idaryti kukuruzu paploteliai (arepas), teslos lazdeles, keptos aliejuje, su suriu), uzbaigiant tradicine sulciu stikline.

So I´m kind of stuck in Colombia. Planned to go to Panama this weekend but Cartagena is just too amazing to leave soon. It´s very touristy at the same time but the architecture, people and lifestyle overwrite all bad things. Old town is a maze of colonial buildings and houses painted in bright colours of Colombia´s flag, yellow is the main one. I´m staying in the neighborhood next to it. Funky mix of local houses, cheap hostels, shops, restaurants, street food and juice places (lulo juice is the best), homeless dogs and people, junkies, etc.

In the hostel we have parrot, turtle with two tiny turtle ninja babies, couple dogs (the white one is retarted, little bollix barks all the time), gang of fish and the cockroach in the fridge.

I met nice people from english speaking countries and I hang out with them most of the time. In evening we would go for best street hunting, finishing with tradicional glass of juice.

Kartagena grozi dalina prie Karibu juros, todel dauguma gyventoju - juodaodziai vergu palikuoniai. Merginos stambokos iki negalejimo aptemptais drabuziais.

Vargingas miestas, bet toliau prie juros esantis rajonas, kur dangu bjauroja modernus daugiaauksciai viesbuciai bei gyvenamieji namai, priima turtingus kolumbiecius. Ten apsilankiau vos desimciai minuciu. Purvini papludimiai (deja, mieste nera nei vieno padoraus papludimio), kur issidrebusiu ant gultu baltapilviu storuliu pedas masazuoja moteriskes, aplink sukasi burys prekiautoju.

Daugiausia laiko praleidziau savo rajone, kartais prasivaiksciodamas senamiesciu. Vakar salia esanciame skvere rinkosi keliautojai is viso pasaulio isgerti alaus ir pasidalinti istorijoms. Nemazai kanadieciu bei amerikieciu per Centrine keliauja i Pietu Amerika auto priemonemis. Belaukdami keltu is Panamos atplaukianciu motociklu ar automobiliu dalis ju, uzburti Kartagenos, nutaria likti keliems menesiams.

Cartagena is next to Caribbean sea so most of the people here are of african slaves descent. City doesn´t look rich but the neighborhood of new modern highrise buildings down the coast is the home for colombians with money. I went there and left after ten minutes. The beach is dirty (no decent city beach in Cartagena unfortunately), full of white fatsies getting foot massages and being ´attacked´by street sellers. I spent most of the time in neighborhood I stay, sometimes going to old town for a walk.

Last night in the square next to us big group of travellers got together to drink beer and share stories. Some americans and canadians drive all the way down through Central to South America. You can´t go overland from Panama so cars and motorbikes are shipped to Cartagena. I met few people who while waiting for auto fall in love with the city and decided to stay for a while.

Salia Kartagenos gyvena nedidelis vulkanas pilna burna purvo. Keistas jausmas nusileisti laipteliais i purvo mase, negali pajudeti, kad ir kaip bandytum irtis, o ir i dugna nugrimzti neimanoma. Pagulejus purve gera pusvalandi, salia esanciame ezere nusiprausti padeda nuolat muddy muddy kartojancios moteriskes. Tad jeigu uz lango pyla lietus (Kartagenoj lietaus sezonas prasidejes ir po gero ´duso´ gatves patvinsta) ir balos prisipildo purvo - siulau pabandyti.

There is mud volcano not far away from Cartagena. It´s a very strange feeling when you can´t move a bit or sink deep. After lying there the women who kept saying muddy muddy will help you to wash the dirt off. So if it´s raining where you are now and streets getting muddy I would highly recommend to try it.

Rutai panorejus, peledai paliepus - ziupsnelis saldzios kolumbietiskos muzikos.

Ankstu sestadienio ryta, dar bunant dziungliu miestelyje, garsiais cumbia ritmais plysavo kaimynu namas. Deja, pazadinusia muzika garsino ne mergina, gimtadienio proga prarijusi pora balionu, bet diedukas, panasus i vokalista.

Porro muzikeles taipogi populiarios.

Man labiausia limpa.

Aukstyn upe / Final river trip

2009-10-16T16:44:00.000-07:00

Pailsejes Karibuose, dienai grizau i Santarem. Lievo viesbucio taikliu pavadinimu Brazil priplekes, tvankus, belangis kambarys neleido normaliai issimiegoti, sapnus nudazes kosmaro atspalviais.

Ryte nuprakaitavau i uosta. Kelione i Manaus, milziniska miesta Amazones sirdyje, truko tris dienas. Sikart laivas pasitaike kelis kartus didesnis - daugiau erdves pakabinti hamakus, kartu daugiau bardako. Be manes laive plauke keletas gringo, anksti uzsidarianciame bare plysavo popsas. Antra diena plaukiant arciau kranto galejai pasigrozeti kaimukais, medziais, upes paradantozes isgrauztomis saknimis, viena vakara salia prasinesusiais delfinais, pamojuoti prie kranto issirikiavusiems kaimieciams. Laivas plyso ivairiausiu dydziu pypliais. Mazieji nenaudeliai anksti ryte pradedavo zviegimo koncerta, diena smirineje pirmyn atgal koncerta pratesdavo pries miega.

Amazones regione vietiniai teka/veda labai anksti, daugumai tai - vienintelis universitetas ar karjeros aukstumos. Manaus atsidurem velai vakare, keista vieta - ilgakakliai daugiauauksciai, storapilviai pastatai vidury dziungliu, nakti issimiegojau tam paciam laive, o anksti ryte patraukiau ieskoti greitojo katerio i Tabatinga. Pasiseke kaip Rumunijai istojus i EU - vienintelis kateris per savaite turejo isplaukti po pusvalandzio, o likusiu brazilisku pinigu centas i centa kaip tik ir uzteko bilietui. 3 kart valio ir visiems stalams koldunu! Greitasis agregatas vardu Puma primine autobusa - tik sedimos vietos, nemokamas maistas (visiskai nebeturejau grynu ir tai buvo issigelbejimas), ekranuose besikeiciantys holivudo sedevrai. Lekem kaip Usain Bolt, sustodami uzsipilti dopingo pluduriuojanciose degalinese. Nuskridom per dvi nuolat apsiniaukusias dienas, paskutini keliones pusvalandi kateris, dingus elektrai, vandeni skrode visiskoje tamsoje.

Back to Santarem and after spending a night in terrible hotel Brazil in a morning I took a boat to Manaus, massive city in the middle of Amazon region. This time the boat was way bigger, more space for hammocks and more mess too. Few gringos chose the same three days trip. It was little bit boring, only on second day you could see more of the villages and forest. The boat was full of little kids who specially in evening before sleep and early morning tried to outcry each other.

People in Amazon start families very young, for most of them it's the only university or career. We arrived in Manaus late evening and I slept on the same boat one more night before going to look for fast boat to Tabatinga. I was so lucky - the only boat in a week was leaving in 30 minutes and the brazilian money I had was just enough for the ticket. The fast one called Puma is more like bus on the water - only seating places, free food and holiwood bullshit nonstop on the tv screen. It took me two days to get to Tabatinga.

Tabatinga - pasienio miestukas, pilkuojantis Brazilijos, Kolumbijos ir Peru zemiu sankirtoje. Tragiskas uostas, lentos vietoj tilteliu, nustekenti mediniai pastatai. Daugumoje pasienio vietoviu susirenka 'sauni' chebra, o Tabatinga pasizymi kaip ir nesaugus kontrabandos centras. Nenoredamas, kad uz nuplysusius sportbacius patiestu koks vietinis henrikas d, kulniavau i salia esanti Kolumbijos atitikmeni Leticia (miestukai sujungti ir kad perejau siena supratau tik is ispanu kalbos uzrasu). Eiti teko gera pusvalandi, pralenkiant diskotekas, apsviestas maksimum dviem blyksianciomis, spalvotomis lemputemis, kuriose pagal urlabyto hitus girtus jaunuolius sokdino i Amazone panasios prostitutes (ta prasme - dideles ir purvinos), stengiantis nenusilauzti kojos neapsviestose gatvese. Kolumbijoje eiles tvarka susiradau - bankomata, interneta, galu gale miniatiurini hosteli, apsupta dziungliu augmenijos bei priglaudusi skardziabalsiu pauksciu buri su i peraugusia ziurke panasiu gyvunu.

Kita diena susirinkau anstpaudus (pasienio postu nera, gali vaikscioti laisvai, bet keliaujant toliau reikia zymiu pase) - iki pasimatymo Brazilija bei labas dienas Kolumbija. Pries penketa metu i Leticia nekisciau nosies, bet dabar tai super saugi vieta - simtai kariskiu su automatais, karines bazes, patikrinimo punktai pagrindiniuose keliuose. Vaikinukas is hostelio, vaziuodamas dviraciu, filmavo miestuka ir netyciomis uzfiksavo kareivines. Greit buvo sulaikytas, nuveztas i nuovada ir tik po valandos tardymo paleistas. Leticia centras tvarkingas, pergrustas parduotuviu ir restoranu. Taciau apie vietove sunku spresti vien pavaiksciojus centre (praleides pusdieni Vilniaus sienamiestyje pagalvotum, kad visi lietuviai vairuoja vokiskus limuzinus, o trusikus pagal kiausu islinkima siunasi pas Armaniu Jurgi Milane). Nusukus i salutines gatveles Leticia labiau primena Azija - duobetos, neasfaltuotos tarpugatves, vargingi, mediniai namai, pusplikiai vaiku buriai. Ispudi sustiprina mopedu, motociklu, netgi keletos tuk tuku karaliavimas gatvese plus karts nuo karto dingstanti elektra ir indeniski vietiniu veidai.

Maloni naujiena - daug mazesnes kainos nei Brazilijoje, uz pora euru gali sukirsti vadinamaji almuerzo (kaip menus Bolivijoje) - sriuba, antras patiekalas bei sulciu stikline. Pasiganes simpatisku miestuku bei nudeges kaitrios saules deka nosi, kuri dabar atrodo kaip socialdemokratas po suvaziavimo, ryt skrendu i Kartagena. Vienintelis budas keliauti is Leticia toliau i Kolumbija yra skristi, nes dziungles aplink kontroliuoja FARC, kurie megsta pagrobti koki uzsienieti ir paprasyti riebios ispirkos. Kartagena - patogiausia vieta testi kelione, galejau vaziuoti per Venesuela is Manaus, bet as labai nemegstu chavez ir jo komunistines Tado Blindos politikos. Tuo labiau kelionese sutikti likimo broliai peike Venesuelos pareigunus, nebuvo suzaveti zmonemis, o kolumbiecius gyre issijuose.

Tabatinga - small border town where Brazil, Colombia and Peru meet for a drink or two. Usually border towns are dogdy ones and Tabatinga is famous as not so safe smuggling centre. I decide to walk to colombian town connected to it called Leticia where I found a cosy hostel surrounded by jungle trees, birds and an animal who looks like massive rat. I wouldn't go to Leticia five years ago but now because of heavy army presence the town is extremly safe. There is no border post so you need to get the stamps in police office if you want to travel further away. Centre of Leticia is clean and full of shops and restaurants. But you can't judge the place by going to centre only.

Life on the side streets is very different - bad roads, poor wooden houses, kids playing with empty plastic bottles. It reminds me Asia a lot plus motorbikes and scooters even few tuk tuks on every corner, indigenous people and time to time no electricity. The prices are not so high as in Brazil, almuerzo (same as menus in Bolivia) costs less than two euros, for that you get soup, main course and glass of juice. Tomorrow I'm flying to Cartagena, the plane is the only way to go further, there are no road and jungle around is controlled by FARC who love to kidnap foreigners and ask for fat ransom.

Amazones Karibai / Caribbean of Amazon

2009-10-09T08:21:00.000-07:00

Keturararatis, autobusas, Fortaleza orouostas, vakarinis skrydis ir jau sutemus taksi i hosteli Beleme, milijoniniame mieste prie Amazones upes ziociu.

Ryte nuvaziave nusipirkti bilietu i laiva, eidami atgal sugebejom pasiklysti. Klaidziojom karstyje ratais, miestas kaip ir visi matyti Brazilijoje - didinga kolonijine praeitis, padengta margaspalviu bardaku. Kelione upe i nediduka miesta Santarem trunka beveik tris paras, laivas turejo isplaukti sesta vakare, mes prisistatem pries pietus. Galima uzsisakyti kajute, bet tai nuobodziausias ir lengviausias variantas. Kabinom hamakus zemutiniame denyje, zmoniu ir lagaminu kiekis daugejo kosminiu greiciu, pries isplaukiant nedideleje patalpoje isitaise pora simtu keleiviu. Hamaku virves sugule skersai bei isilgai, pasiekti kaimyna tereikejo istiesti ranka. Zinoma, keliones startas nusitese pora valandu, laivas buvo prigrustas ivairiausiu prekiu iki negalejimo, virsutiniame denyje-bare sugule matrasu kalnas.

Palike zuvimi dvokianti, maitvanagiu nusesta uosta, pirma vakara plaukem upes viduriu. Visu dziaugsmui laive sutikom pora turistu - airi Dave ir prancuze Ann is Dublino, menesi keliaujancius po Brazilija. Dauguma zmoniu, atrodo, niekada ir nepalieka hamaku. Kaimynai pasitaike draugiski, priziurejom vienas kito daiktus, nes saugyklu nera ir, ypac kai laivas sustoja issikrauti, mazesne kuprine gali lengvai nugvelbti is kranto uzsuke vietiniai. Bare pardavinejo alu, kur greit susiformavo grupele brazilu, lakusiu visas tris dienas non stop. Pirma nakti sunkiai pavyko uzmigti bangu siubuojamame hamake.

Once again 4x4 jeep, bus, Fortaleza airport, late flight to Belem, the city on the banks of the Amazon estuary. We stayed there only one night, got the tickets in port for the boat to Santarem and managed to get lost on the way back to hostel (it was kind of sightseeing of downtown). The trip on a boat to Santarem takes three days and the boat had to leave at six pm. We got there before lunch to get a better place for our hammocks. You can get a cabin with air conditioning but that's cheating. More and more people showed up and when we finally left two hours late the place was jammed with hammocks, people and luggage. On the top floor half of the space was occupied by mattresses.

On the boat we met Dave and Ann from Dublin and four of us were the only tourists on the boat. It seems that most of the people just stay in the hammocks all the time, there is no storage space so you need to be friendly with your neighbours who will look after your backpacks. There was a group of brazilian guys who drank all three days non stop, myself after few cans tried to get some sleep in the hammock. It wasn't easy I would say.

Laive yra mini valgykla, kur pusryciams siulo sumustinius su cukrumi, uzpiltu kava, pietums ir vakarienei - ryziai, makaronai, mesa ir pupeles. Maistas nesikeicia visas tris dienas. Salia valgyklos issirikiave pakankamai tvarkingi tualetai ir dusai, i kuriuos kartais tekdavo prasibrauti pro hamaku jura. Plaukeme arciau kranto, pralenkdami medines sodybas su satelitinemis antenomis, kitas be elektros. Laivo lauke valtyse susedusiu vaiku buriai, kuriems brazilu latru saika mete kepures ir marskinelius. Kai kurios valtys, prisigretinusios svartavosi prie sono, o vaikuciai siule suriu veziu, limonado ir kazkokiu saknu. Latrai, kai kurie jau numige posma prie stalo, jaunuosius Amazones verslininkus vaisino ledais bei saldumynais.

Vaikuciai, net ir maziausias pirskelis nusmukusiomis kelnemis, profesionaliai valdo valtis ir i placios, banguotos upes viduri plaukia be suaugusiuju pagalbos. Vakare bare alaus megejai labai jau norejo bendrauti su uzsienieciais - is pradziu portugaliskai, po to labai letai portugaliskai (tarsi tai padetu), didejant alaus kiekiui - sudetinga vaidyba. Po siek tiek lengvesnio miego paskutine diena voliojomes hamake, skaitydami knygas. Pute malonus vejelis, latrai, noredami nusipirkti daugiau alaus, pardavinejo marskinelius ir ziedus. Mes laukem kol kas pasiulys inksta uz kelias skarbonkes.

Grazus saulelydis, deja, lievas miegas persikreipusiame hamake, o ryte istiese kaklus laukem kada pasirodys Santarem. Pasieke miestuka pries pietus, tiesiu taikymu su naujais pazistamais sovem i Alter do Chao, kaimuka prie Tapajos upes.

There is mini canteen on the boat - sandwiches for breakfast, for lunch and dinner - meat, rice, pasta and beans, same food all three days. Next to the canteen - clean bathrooms and showers surrounded by hammocks. Second day the boat was sailing close to the shore with wooden house close to the water. Kids on little boats were waiting for t-shirts and caps the drunk brazilian bunch was throwing into the water. Some kids came to the boat to sell snacks. Even the smallest one was so good at driving the boat in the middle of wide river.

In the evening the drunks were so keen to talk to foreigners, of course in portugese, after while in slow portugese (like it helps), finally in sign language. Last day on the boat was spent lying in the hammock, reading books and doing nothing. The drunk company was selling t-shirts and rings to buy more beer, we waited till somebody will offer a kidney for a six pack.

Beautifull sunset, last night on the boat and long wait in a morning to get to Santarem. From there we took a bus to Alter do Chao, little town near Tapajos river.

Amazones regiona isivaizdavau kaip drumzlino vandens ir apzelusiu upes krantu derini. Ne velnio, Alter do Chao apylinkes primena atvirukuose matytus Karibus - skaidrus vanduo, baltas kaip pirmakursis po astunto alaus smeliukas, spiginanti saule. Tapajos upe, isiliejanti i Amazone, uzriecia vingi prie kaimuko, sudarydama Ilha do Amor (Meiles sala) bei Lago Verde (Zaliaji ezera).

Be musu keturiu nauju atvykeliu hamakuose miegojo cilieciu pora, vaikinukai is Kolumbijos ir Argentinos, keliaujantis po pasauli ir duona uzdirbantys zongliruodami stikliniais rutuliais, bei Kanadoje gyvenantis jamaikietis Rojus, besiruosiantis savaitei trunkanciam dziungliu maratonui.

Totali ramybe, hostelyje tvarka priziurejo penkiu centu dydzio rastamanas su kupeta dredu bei jaunas, nuolatos apsiputes vaikinukas. Maisto atliekas mesdavom uz tvoros, kad siuksliadeziu neatakuotu skruzdeles. Likucius patvarko zaliais svarkais ir rudomis kelnemis pasidabine driezai. Daznai isgirsi zioplius, krentancius is medziu - duslus garsas ir po keliu sekundziu drieziukas nuskuodzia tolyn. Pramogu kaimuke nera, sestadieni vienintelej kaimuko aiksteje ivyko religinis koncertas su israiskingais vaidinimais ir prastu garsu.

Atsizvelgiant i tai, kad prie hostelio baltavo ezero papludimys pagrindiame apsilankeme vos viena karta. O jei pas jus uz lango siaucia lietus turbut sunkoka isivaizduoti kaip pries pusrycius galima pasipliuskenti ezere, diena gulineti hamake, juokiantis is nevykeliu driezu, vel pasinerti i silta kaip arbata vandeni, vaikscioti pakrante leidziantis saulei bei vilketi vien sortais. Kudikeliui Jezui si vieta patiktu dangiskai.

Alter do Chao looks like Carribean I saw on postcards. White sand, clear water, sunny all the time. Tapajas river surrounds Ilha do Amor (Love island) and goes into Lago Verde (Green lake). There were only few people in a hostel and here having more space sleeping in hammock was great. It's so chilled out, no nightlife whatsoever, on Saturday night on a main square (only one square I guess) religious concert took the place.

We even didn't have to go to main beach, the lake was a minute away from hostel and before breakfast I would always go for a swim. No shoes or clothes, just shorts and barefoot. Very warm water and deserted beaches. All the food we didn't eat was thrown over the fence for lizards. Funny creatures kept falling from the trees all the time.

Swimming, listening to music, talking to people, going for a walk on the beach. Amazing place, with just few tourists around. Not the first time I'm pretty sure even baby Jesus would love the place.

Porai dienu su Alter do Chao gyvenanciu ciabuviu Robertho is Jamaracua genties nuplankem aplankyti jo kaimo.

Kelione birbiancia valtimi, sustojant atsigauti tusciuose papludimiuose, neprailgo. Apsistojom vietiniu sodyboje, pasiureje pasikabine hamakus. Indenai nebevaiksto lapais uzsidenge uzpakalius, bet vis dar priklauso nuo pagautos zuvies ir turistu perkamu suvenyru.

Abi dienas maitinti zuvimi su Robertho patraukem zvejoti (t.y. mes irklavom, o jis bande pagauti vakariene) i nedideli upeli, kur vietinis drasuolis musu dziaugsmui, isilipes i medi, lazda nudauze biciu lizda.

Plaukioje iki saulelydzio zuvies nepagavom, o musu gidas zuvi konfiskavo is jaunu vaikinuku, po vandeniu nakti prozektoriaus pagalba saudanciu laimiki. Ko gero skaniausia vakariene Brazilijoje, ypac iskepus riebia zuvi ant lauzo papludimyje.

Sugulus miegoti isklausem dziungliu koncerta, ryte estafete pereme naminiai pauksciai. Atejes diedukas pravede pagrindiniu taku per dziungles. Deja, didesniu gyvunu nepamatem, norint tai padaryti tektu keliauti kelias dienas.

For couple of days we went to Jamaracua tribe village few hours away by boat from Alter do Chao. Indians are the poorest people in Brazil surviving on fish they catch and crafts sold to tourists. We stayed in local family place, of course in hammocks. Went for a boat trip with our guide Robertho trying to catch a fish, no luck and Robertho took one from local boys diving at night time trying to shoot some fish.

That was the best meal I had in Brazil, cooked on the fire on the beach, no salt or herbs but so tasty. Jungle concert before falling asleep and in a morning farm birds took over. We did a short trek in a jungle, no big animals around, for that you need to go deep in the jungle.

Robke, nepasidaves vilionems testi kelione, isplauke namo (iki kaledu turetu grizti). Dave ir Ann isplauke anksciau i Manaus, as, praleides dar pora dienu Alter do Choa, rytoj tesiu kelione Amazone.

Robbie flew back to Dublin, Dave and Ann went to Manaus earlier and I stayed in Alter do Chao couple days more. Tomorrow I'll continue my trip. Dave had an i-pod with some decent music on it and we listened a lot to brilliant irish band.

Saules beieskant / Relentless pursuit of sun

2009-09-30T07:19:00.000-07:00

´Gimtajame mieste mane vadina keistuoliu, cia visi tokie, todel as kaip ir normalus´- maniakiska sypsena teigini patvirtina Paolo, Angoloje uzauges portugalas, keliaujantis jau desimt metu, paskutinius kelis sezonus bandantis prasisukti Jericoacoara. Miestelis siaures rytuose - nedidukas, vos keli tukstanciai gyventoju ir kruva turistu.

Atkeliauti is Rio teko pakeisti du lektuvus, vaziuoti sesias valandas autobusu, o paskutine atkarpa kratytis dideliame keturatyje per kopas ar pajuriu jau nakti (kelyje vis isdygdavo karviu ar asiliuku burys).

Jericoacoara elektra pasieke vos pries kelis metus, taciau laidai buvo istiesti po zeme.

Miestelyje tvarka saugo trys policininkai, kuriems dirbti virsvalandziu netenka. Super saugu, nes bendruomene vietini ar atvykeli vagiuka/chuligana greitai issiaiskina, draugiskai pamusa ir deportuoja is kurorto. Gyvenom centrinej gatvej, salia aiksteje berniukas kioske pardavinejo gardziuosius x-tudo burgerius bei alu, todel sia vieta pavadine savo localu lankem kiekviena vakara.

Kaip ir visur daug restoranu, suvenyru parduotuviu, turizmo agenturu, bet viskas pateikta pakankamai stilingai ir idomiai.

Kaip tik dabar prasideda kite surfing sezonas ir Jericoacoara dviems menesiems tampa geriausia pasaulyje vieta uzssimti siuo sportu. Susirenka kitesurfing elitas, vaikinukai, kuriems dideles kompanijos moka uz vejo vaikymasi. Papludimiai platus, vejas negailestingas, kepina saulute, aplink kopos. Diena pamatysi simpatiskas sportininku merginas, o vakare gatves slifuoja vietines moteriskos lyties atstoves, juodaodziu ir indenu misinys, placiais klubais (dideliu seimu rezultatas), placiais peciais (darbo plantacijose genai) ir riebalais papildomais (bulkuciu laimejimas).

Mano ir Robkes megstamiausia Jericoacoara bendruomene - rastamanai, pardavinejantys visokius sudukus ir konkuruojantys sukuosenu kietumu. Numeris vienas - mazasis rastamanas, nuolat besisypsantis bei kartajontis ya man, animacinio peliuko veidu ir didziule rastos kepure ant miniatiurines galvos.

´In my town they call me crazy, here everybody is like that so I´m normal´ - the portugese guy Paolo who travelling for 10 years now and last few staying in Jericoacoara followed the sentence with freaky smile. The seaside village in northeast of Brazil is quite small, the electricity reached Jericoacoara only few years back. In order to get there we had to change two planes, take a bus and for last two hours go by 4x4 huge jeep through the dunes.

The hostel was on the main street, few metres from small kiosk where you could get tasty x-tudo burgers and beer, we called it our local and visited it every night. Jericoacoara has three policemen but they don´t do much, if somebody causing any trouble locals will beat them up and kick out from the village for long time. It´s very safe at any time.

The kite surfing season started and Jericoacoara for two months will be the best place in the world to catch the wind. All professionals kite surfers who get paid for doing it are now there. Locals are quite ugly I would say, mix between indian and black, extra fat all around in most cases. The good thing was the sun all the time and strong wind. The best community is the rasta one, they sell handcrafts and all that. Favourite one - little rastaman, really funny guy smiling all the time with huge rasta hat on the head.

Pirma diena pagaude saule valanda ir neblogai nudege (ekvatorius prie pat ir eidamas mini ant seselio galvos), kitas dvi dienas saules pamatyti nepavyko, nes pjovem. Atsikelus i vakara i local, alaus, po dvylikos i papludimi, prikimsta kiosku pardavinejanciu caipirinha, ir vieninteliu klubu, siulanciu sokine sudmuzike. Paryciais visas veiksmas keliasi i forró kluba (siaures rytu nacionaline muzika), taip naktine Jericoacoara banda ir keliauja iki saules pasitikimo.
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Paskutine diena siaip ne taip sugebejom nuvaziuoti i eskursija apziureti smelynuose issidrebusiu gelo vandens ezeru.

We got some tan on the first day, sun is so strong, it took just an hour to get red. Next two days was party time, beer in local till midnight, after to the beach where caipirinha is the drink and the shit dance music is the choise in only one club. Finally in early hours forró club (local folk music) and the sunrise.

Somehow the last we managed to go to lagoons in the dunes.

Sekmadieni istustejusioj centrineje aiksteje del 100 reais prizo varzesi vietiniai daininkai. Rengini stebejo visas kaimas - trys policininkai, rastamanu burys (dreduotieji bande jegas dainu konkurse, suvilioti aukso puodo), pro sali praslinkdavo Paolo, salia daininku ant scenos soko isprotejusi mergina, panasi i Gavrosa (nuolat sokusi ant scenos forró klube). Pagrindine gatve nuskubejo karve, zalmarges paryciais atvaro buriais esti is siuksliadeziu, ta pati daro ir asiliukai, bet dabar ne sezonas. Sedint locale, nugara gaivino vejas, pedos varte smeli, berniukas atnese dar pora alaus, gyvenimas grazus ar ne? (cia Robke taip nuostabiai saulelydi papleskino).

I didn´t like that local music much but this tune they kept playing in seafood restaurant is amazing. Btw sorry for my english cause I am writing it in a hurry.

Obrigado Botafogo

2009-09-25T11:22:00.001-07:00

Rio de Janeiro neisivaizduojamas be saules kaip Trakai be kibinu ar Dublinas be narkomanu. Deja, beveik visa viesnages laika saule slepesi uz debesu, o lietus karts nuo karto taskydavo be gailescio. I Brazilija pagaudyti saules ir pakeliauti kartu pora savaiciu atvyko draugas Robertas aka Robke is Dublino, sugebejes pramiegoti originalu skrydi is Madrido ir pasirodes diena veliau.

Apsistojome vidurines klases rajone Botafogo, jaukiame hostelyje, kurio dauguma lankytoju sudare brazilai. As, nesulaukes Robkes, pirma diena praslankiojau kaiminysteje, prasieidamas vietiniu papludimiu. Hostelyje kiekviena vakara ´mama Ciolia´ ruosdavo gardzia vakariene, pietums ant kampo geltuojancios uzkandines padavejas patardavo koki patiekala pasirinkti. Brazilija - brangiausia salis Pietu Amerikoje, ypac didieji miestai, todel prabangiai ilsetis kainuoja nemazai rubliu. Botafogo - geras rajonas su medumi kvepianciomis gatvemis, minimaliu kiekiu turistu, todel gali pamatyti kaip verda kasdieninis gyvenimas Rio.

Vakare atvykus Robkei, sovem aplankyti samba klubo, ant kurio scenos grojo krepsinio komandos dydzio grupe, o sokejai-lankytojai kraipe klubus. Grizus i hosteli, su brazilu kompanija iki paryciu zaidem zaidima kortomis, kurio esme isgerti kuo dazniau. Robke issitrauke buteli degtines, snapse visi ragavo nesusiraukdami.

Rio de Janeiro is the city to enjoy best when the sun is shining. Unfortunately all the time I spent there the sun showed up only few times and it rained a lot. My friend Robert aka Robbie from Dublin came to visit Brazil and travel together for couple of weeks.

He managed to miss original flight in Madrid and arrived next day. The hostel we stayed in was in middle class Botafogo neighborhood.

First day I walked around the hood, nice place, not many tourists around so you can see daily life of Rio. Brazil is the most expensive country in South America, specially big cities. The breakfast and dinner was served in hostel was tasty and simple, for lunch the waiter of the local bar on the corner would recommend good and cheap food. The hostel was full of brazilians and couple of days we were only foreigners there. When Robbie arrived we went to samba club with live band on the stage and hip shaking on the floor. Back to hostel, drinking game with brazilians, bottle of vodka Robbie brought from Ireland, early morning in Rio.

Sau Paulo brazilai gasdino pavojais Rio de Janeiro, pasak ju, centras pilnas bomzu, favelu gyventoju, ieskanciu lengvo grobio. Nerade pirkti automatu, ejom apziureti centro ginkluoti tik fotoaparatu. San Paulo gyventojai perdejo arba mums tiesiog ´nepasiseke´ - judrus, purvinokas centras neatrode pavojingas kaip ir superdidelis turgus, siulantis ivairiausiu suduku, galinga katedra ar senus laikus menanti architektura, isikibusi i paranke pilkiems daugiaauksciams.

Apsiniaukes dangus pradejo dalinti lietaus lasus, mes bandeme vaziuoti i Santa Teresa rajona, taciau autobuso vairuotojas islaipino prie Corcovado kalvos. Virsuneje dunkso zymioji Kristaus statula. Kylant i kalva tramvajumi, matomumas mazejo geometrine progresija, atsidurus virsuneje migloje buvo sunku iziureti net ir 40 metu aukscio Kristaus figura. Krapnojantis lietus neleido likti ilgiau, o liutis vakare priverte sedeti hostelyje beziurint filmus apie Brazilija.

Brazilian guys in Sao Paulo kept telling me that Rio is dangerous place full of homeless and favelas´ finest looking to mug a tourist. I wouldn´t agree, the downtown of Rio was busy, little bit dirty but safe. Old buildings next to high rise apartment blocks, enormous cathedral, huge market where you can buy some shit.

The rain was getting stronger, we wanting to go to Santa Teresa neighborhood by accident ended up next to Corcovado hill, home to famous statue of Christ. Going up to the hill by tram the visibility was getting worse every second. On the top the only thing you could see was the statue surrounded by thick fog. Awfull forced us to go back very soon and stay in hostel watching brazilian movies.

Kita diena Santa Teresa pasiekem antikvariniu tramvajumi, is ten atgal i centra kulniavome pesciomis. Tipo menininku rajonas su simpatiskais, ryskiomis spalvomis ir detalemis papuostais namukais, vergu prakaitu pastatytomis senomis pilaitemis ir uz nugaros marguojanciomis favelomis. Nakti i si rajona taksi net nevaziuoja, bet ir diena nesiryzom lysti giliau i salutines gatveles.

Bevalgant pietus pasirode tingine saule, pazadejusi giedresni dangu. Nulekus metro iki Pão de Açúcar kalvos, prisikabino dusmanas Antonio, isiules dar karta aplankyti Kristaus statula. Si karta po kojomis atsivere visas Rio vaizdas - smeleti papludimiai, zalieji rajonai.

Antonio garsiai, labai garsiai dalinosi gimtosios provincijos muzika, svilpavo kiekvienai pakeliui sutiktai merginai ir patare be baimes aplankyti salia musu esancia favela (po to kiti brazilai primygtinai prase to nedaryti). Grizus i Pão de Açúcar kilom budele aukstyn, Rio pasipuose ziburiais, Robkes gimtadienio proga ragavom caipirinhas. Telefoninio pokalbio metu jubilijatas tiksliai apibudino veiksma - ´lakam samagona ir megaujames Kristumi´.

Vakare susitikus su kaimyne is Dublino Egele, kuri Brazilijoje lanko draugus, pratesem caipirinha ragavima. Po simto metu taip ilgai snekejau lietuviskai (Saltoje sutikau viena mergina ir pora vaikinuku Iguazu, su kuriais persimetem keliais zodziais).

Santa Teresa neighborhood is kind of arty one, colourful houses, colonial mansions and favelas on the hills around. At night taxi driver wouldn´t go there and at day we didn´t go deep to side streets.

The sun showed up , we took a metro to Sugar Loaf hill, where taxi driver Antonio convinced us to visit Christ statue again. This time the view was great - sunny beaches and green neighborhoods.

Back to Sugar Loaf , tram to the top, darkness and zillions of light popping in the city below. Robbie celebrated his birthday and we had few caipirinhas while enjoying the view.

Caipirinha was the drink of the night when we met my neighbor from Dublin Egle visiting her friends in Brazil. I haven´t spoke lithuanian for a long time.

Nors saule ir nepasirode paskutine diena, popiete praleidom papludimiuose, nes juos aplankyti Rio privaloma. Zmoniu pakranteje, krapnojant lietui, ilsejosi mazai, jokiu atviru bikini ir kitu grozybiu ne zenklo. Taciau pardaveju ir kitu ikyriu tipu netruko. Prazingsniave Copacabana, uzsukant i forta patikrinti Brazilijos kariniu pajegu pasiruosima, uzsukom i prabangu Ipanema papludimi.

Ponai ir ponios gere sampana, o gelbetojai nuobodziaudami krapste ausis. Svieciant saulei, Rio papludimiai nusluostytu nosi bet kuriam kitam miestui. Tuo galesiu isitikinti grizes karnavalo metu.

Sun didn´t show the last day but anyways we went to check the beach cause you can´t miss it. Light rain and no bikinis around just annoying sellers everywhere. Longest beach Copacabana guarded by fort and poshy Ipanema beach. I guess when it´s raining the story is like that but if you can buy some sun credits in advance Rio would be the best city for beach life.

Sauletas Rio bombarduotu bossa nova medaus bombomis.

Valandos ilgumo centimetras / Hour long centimetre

2009-09-20T06:35:00.000-07:00

Miestai isdygsta ivairaus dydzio - mazesni, kuriuose visi vienas kita pazista, didesni, kuriuose niekas nieko nenori pazinti, o kaimynai nesisveikina. Sao Paulo namais vadina daugiau kaip 17 milijonu zmoniu, kaip kokios penkios Lietuvos. Kiekviena diena nuskamba keliasdesimt milijonu labas rytas bei labanaktis, ivyksta milijonai dramu, isliejama milijardai asaru, gyvenima nuskaidrina miljonai sypsenu.

As i didziausiu pasaulio miestu penketuko nari atvykau aplankyti pazistamu is sauletosios Italijos - Monicos ir Luca. Monica viena semestra architekturos magistro studiju atidirbineja Brazilijoje, Luca, pafotkines menesi mirstanciame Detroite, ruosia nuotraukas parodai, galbut knygai. Apsistojau pas ju pazistamus - jaunus brazilus, studijuojancius zurnalistika, prabangiame bute (sveicorius prie duru, bobute, tvarkanti namus kiekviena diena), kuris nuolatos buvo pergrustas busimais ziniasklaidos atstovais, snekanciais puikia anglu kalba. Sao Paulo - milziniskas, super didziulis, neimanomai platus. Miesta nutariau apziureti keliaudamas pesciomis, zemelapyje atstumai pasirode nedideli. I parka, kuris nuo gyvenamosios vietos zaliavo vos keletos centimetru atstumu, kulniavau daugiau kaip dvi valandas, vis klausdamas praeiviu, negaledamas patiketi gatviu ilgumu. Ibirapuera parkas - erdvus, tvarkingas, papuostas muziejais, begikais, ziopliais kaip as ir benamiais.

Ilgas zygis i centra uzsukant i kulturos centra, pralenkiant japonu rajona, dziaugiantis milijonais grafiti ant kiekvienos tvoros ar laisvos sienos. Centras - totalus velnynas, i dangu saunantys, masyvus pastatai, primenantys JAV, miegantys, sedintys bomzai, kostiumuoti dedes, minios zmoniu, baznycia supancios prostitutes, favelu jaunimas, akimis beieskantys eilines aukos, veidai, kurie net ir nueje nusipirkti pieno, pakliutu i penkto puslapio metu desimtuka. Pardavejai, siulantys muzika ir porno, raganu eile ant tilto, pasiruosusiu isburti ateiti ar uzkeikti priesa, nuo kreko isejusiu zombiu gvardijos, Jacksono antrininku konkursas, prie viso to pridek vejo blaskomas siuksliu kruvas ir pro smogo antklode bandancius prasimusti kaitrios saules spindulius. Kaip suprantate Sao Paulo man patiko tuoj pat.

Cities come in different sizes - small ones where everybody knows each other, big ones where nobody wants to know no one. Sao Paulo with population of 17 millions is the huge one. I came here to visit Monica and Luca, italian guys I hosted in Dublin once. Monica came to Sao Paulo for six months to do architecture internship and Luca after spending a month in ruined down Detroit taking pictures is getting ready the photos for exhibition, probably a book too. I stayed in their friends', brazilian guys studying journalism, place - nice apartment in poshy neighborhood full of people all the time and they all spoke very good english. Sao Paulo is just massive, I decided to see the centre by walking, the distance on the map looked alright.

The walk to Ibirapuera park took me more than two hours (2 centimetres on map). I kept asking people for directions cause I just couldn't believe how far it is. The park is like any park anywhere - green, calm island in crazy city, people doing exercises, getting some sleep.

Long walk to downtown passing centre of culture, japanese neighborhood, admiring graffiti on every wall or fence. Downtown is mad place - high rise buildings like in USA, rich and poor mixing, homeless people everywhere, crackheads shouting out of their heads. The witches on the bridge offering to tell the future, prostitutes surrounding the church, young guys from favelas looking to rob somebody and on top of it - flying garbage around and the sun trying to get through clouds of smog. I just loved the place.

Monica patare nesisvaisyti fotoaparatu (todel nevisada galejau nufotografuoti idomesnius tipazus ar vietas), kiseneje nesiotis nedaug pinigu. Stengiausi nevaikscioti issiziojes su zemelapiu rankose, o policininkai su nepersaunamomis liemenemis ir visada atsegtais pistoletu deklais bei apsauginiai prie kiekvieno pastato patvirtino perspejima. Sao Paulo - verslo ir darbo miestas, Avenida Paulista, prie kurios apsistojau,pagrindinis Pietu Amerikos finansinis centras, todel ir nakti ten buvo pakankamai saugu (paciame centre nakti karaliauja visa diena miegoje bomzai).

Gatvese sutiksi nemazai japonu, tai jau trecioji karta, todel visi sneka portugaliskai ir elgiasi kaip brazilai. Beveik puse miesto gyventoju - italu kilmes, ju cia keletas milijonu. Dauguma europieciu galvoja,kad Brazilija perpildyta grazuolemis, bet kaip ir bet kuriame dideliame mieste gatves slifuoja ivairus zmones. Aisku, apsirengimo stilius 'parodyk ka turi' skiriasi nuo vakarietisko.

Brazilai - draugiskiausi sutikti zmones, jiems idomu is kur tu, ka veiki. Busimi zurnalistai issitempe isgerti alaus i alternatyvu rajona, kuriame karaliauja verksniai emo, pasipuose vienodomis sukuosenomis, auskarais, prostitutemes, gejai, transvestitai, rokeriai. Iki paryciu visi iki vieno pavyzdingai snekejo angliskai, nors as buvau vienintelis uzsienietis.
Monica straight away told me not to flash my camera, carry small amount of money and just be careful. Policemen wearing bulletproof vests ready to shoot and security guys next to every building seconded that. Sao Paulo is work and business city and Avenida Paulista I was staying next to is the main financial centre in South America so at night it was safe place (downtown at night is ruled by homeless people). Brazil is famous for beautiful girls but like in any big city you'll see every kind of people, of course the dress style 'show what you have' is different from western one.

There are many japanese on the streets, it's second or third generation so they talk portuguese and act brazilian. Most of population are italian descent, millions of them live in the city. Brazilians are the friendliest people I met, they are really interested where are you from and all that. I went out with brazilian guys and till early morning they spoke only english, even I was only foreigner there.
Sao Paulo - alternatyvios kulturos namai, o CSS - pagrindinis muzikos veliavanesys vakaru pasaulyje.

Savaitgalis Europoje / Back to Europe

2009-09-15T16:04:00.000-07:00

Buenos Aires primena Europos didmiesti - patogus metro, tvarkingas eismas, placios gatves, Afrikos sunus, siulantys ´prabangius´ laikrodzius ir aukso dirbinius, azijieciai, tvarkantys verslo reikalus, simpatiskos merginos isvaizda panasios i ispanes ar itales. Pirmojo miesto meru paliepimu pagrindine aveniu isklota pagal Paryziaus bulvaro pavyzdi. Masyvus pastatai, jaukios kavines, kainomis lygiuojasi i Vilniaus. Vienas argentinietis , gyvenes Madride, tvirtino, kad Argentinos ir Ispanijos sostines panasios. Madride teko pabuvoti vos kelias valandas, bandant pamiegoti parke karsta vasaros diena beprotiskos keliones is Maroko namo metu, todel palyginti negaliu.

Aisku, eurpietiskas pyragas aplietas latina sirupu - Maradonos antrininkas, pardavinejantis desra ir suri is krepsio gatveje, tango avalynes ir drabuziu parduotuves, emocingai garsus praeiviu pokalbiai gatveje. Pirma diena prasivaiksciojau centro gatvemis, keistas jausmas - tarsi trumpam griztum i Europa - turtingu tevu vaikuciai protestuoja pries vargsu arkliuku engima, verslininkai garsiai itikineja mobilius telefonus, mcdonalde bei burger kinge buriuojasi storapilviu eiles. Sienos pamargintos politiniais lozungais, daugybe teatru, muzieju, knygu parduotuviu. Didziulis, kultura kvepuojantis miestas (savaitgali prie teatro zmones stojasi i milziniska eile), vieta, kuria geriausia aplankyti keliu savaiciu atostogu metu, kai pinigine plysta litais. Hostelis pasitaike smagus su terasa-baru ketvirtame aukste. Vakare hostelyje dirbantys vyrukai pasijunge gitaras, istrauke bugnus ir kale rokenrola iki paryciu. As po paros keliones autobuse biso nesulaukiau.

Buenos Aires reminds Europe a lot - convenient subway system, wide, clean streets, massive buildings, cosy cafes, african guys selling fake watches and gold on pavements, asian businessmen in a hurry, cute girls look spanish or italian. The main avenue by request of first city mayor was built like a boulevard in Paris. One argentinian guy who lived in Madrid for a while told me that both capitals are similar. I was in Madrid only for a few hours trying to get some sleep in a park so I can´t compare.

Of course Maradona´s twin selling sausages and cheese on the street or special tango shops won´t let you forget you are in South America. First day I took a walk in city centre. Walls are covered in political graffiti, rich parents´ kids protesting against animal cruelty, mcdonalds and burger king offering ´healthy´ food. Buenos Aires is very cultural city - many theatres, book shops. It´s a place to visit during few weeks holiday when your vallet is full of money. The hostel I stayed in had a rooftop bar. At night time the guys working in hostel took guitars and played rock n roll till early hours.

Argentinos sostineje pavasaris, sviecia saulute, praeiviai akis slepia po juodais stiklais. Sestadieni kojas pramankstinau siauriniuose miesto barrios (rajonai). Recoleta kaiminysteje karaliauja turtingi buratinai, iejimus i apartamentus saugo sveicoriai, kartais gali pasijausti kaip kokiam Manhetene. La Recoleta kapinese turtingi ir zymus, vargsams leidziama apsilankyti.

Aplink pilnu pajegumu veikia gatves turgus, kuris jau pradeda igristi. Palermo rajonas, ikurtas italu, plysta restoranais bei dizaneiriu parduotuvemis, aki traukia spalvoti namai, nes siaip centras labai jau angliskai pilkas. Pagrindiniam skvere eilinis gatves turgus, daugybe zmoniu, i rankas brukami meniu anglu kalba, nauja darba susirades Sabonis. Griztant atgal, gatves nuzaliuodavo vesiais parkais, sostines gyventojai neskubedami varte laikrascius kavinese, sunu vedziotojai prazygiuodavo su minimum penkiais ivairaus plauko ar dantu astrumo ketrukojais.

Uzsukes i Retiro rajona, i hosteli grizau Florida gatve. Net nezinojau, kad tokia superturistine gatve egzistuoja, gatves artistai, turu siulytojai, tango sokejai, etc. Spejau nugriebti eilines grupes pasirodyma, argentinieciai groja nerealiai, muzikos kokybe nusluostytu nosi daugeliui Lietuvos estrados zvaigzdziu. Vakare isejus pavalgyti picos (italu maistas emigrantu deka ne ka prastesnis nei Europoje) netyciomis pataikiau i saviveiklininku koncerta. Moteriske bufetavos sukuosena nuostabiu balsu liejo sirdi pirmoji. Ja pakeite atlikeja, kuri atrode kaip Malvina po nevykusios plastines operacijos, balso silpnuma atpirko israiskingomis mimikomis, nusmukusia liemenuko petnesele jau antro posmo metu ir jausmingais ranku mostais. Mikrofona pereme koncerto vedejas - diedukas elegantisku kostiumu, skambant tango ritmui galingai suokes apie gyvenima.

On Saturday I headed to northern barrios (neighborhoods). Recoleta is the place where rich people live, some apartments wouldn´t be out of place in Manhattan. La Recoleta cemetery is the place where rich and famous go to sleep forever.

There was a street market around the cemetery but I´m getting tired of all the markets, they are same everywhere. Palermo, barrio started by italians, had one on the main plaza as well. Loads of people, restaurants, designer boutiques over there and some colourfull house (city centre is very english grey).

On the way back I passed few nice parks, the guys who getting money for walking with minimum five different size dogs, very touristy Florida street where the band was playing fantastic music.

Sestadieni vakare ´padariau klaida´ - isejau pasitoosinti su airiais. Prasiejom per pora baru, o po to pakliuvom i vakareli, organizuojama vokiecio. Vienu zodziu, i futbolo rungtynes, kurios vyko sekmadienio popiete visi ejo nemiegoje haha. Varzybos tarp River Plate ir Colon buvo migdancios, bet komandu palaikymas labai triuksmingas ir smagus.

I ´made a mistake´ going out with irish guys on Saturday night. We went to few bars and were invited to house party organised by german guy. Next day football match between River Plate and Colon we watched in stadium without sleep the night before. It was fun.

Paskutine stotele Argentinoje - nedidelis miestukas Puerto Iguazu prie Brazilijos sienos. Labai turistinis, bet mielas, spalvotas, pakiures ir siltas. Pagaliau po pusantro menesio nereikia megztinio vakare, o diena tenka braukti prakaita nuo kaktos.

Last stop in Argentina - Puerto Iguazu, small touristy town close to brasilian border. After six weeks of cold finally I don`t need warm clothes in evening and it`s so nice.

Cia atsibeldziau aplankyti srauniausiu pasaulyje Iguazu kriokliu, estafete perims nuotraukos. Vienas svarbus dalykas - aplankius krioklius jautiesi kazkaip taip anaip dvasiskai svarus, pabandykit.

I came here to visit the Iguazu falls, the photos will tell the story. Just one thing - after visiting falls I feel so clean spiritually, you need to try it.

This song from Cuba was very popular in the hostel`s bar.

Vyno krastas / Land of wine

2009-09-09T20:03:00.000-07:00

Dabar taip - Bolivija karunuojama protestu cempione Pietu Amerikoje, bet Argentina mano vizito metu bando nuplesti karuna. Vaziuojant i Cafayate, likus 20 kilometru iki miestelio, kelia uzstojo nutuke tarsi prizines kiaules diedai. Man jau nusispjaut del kokiu priezasciu ir kas eina i gatves. Prasedejom autobuse valanda, tada visi su kurpinemis ant peciu ar lagaminais rankose ejom uz protesto ribu, atvaziavo taxi ir pristate i Cafayate centrine aikste. Beje, procesa stebejo didziulis burys policijos, bet nesikiso. Tegu tie protestuojantys lopai maziau valgo ir tures pinigu, daugumai lasiniai per dirzu virsu i kisenes slinko. hau!

Bolivia is a champion of South America when it comes to road blockades but Argentina is not far behind. Twenty kilometres to Cafayate there was a bunch of fat as prize pigs dickheads who didn´t let the bus through. So we had to wait in a bus for an hour, then walk for a little bit and get the taxi to Cafayate. There were loads of police around but they did nothing. I don´t really care anymore what are the reasons for blockade but they better eat less and money will not be a problem. If I had spanish I would said that and probably would be eaten alive.

Cafayate - vienas is svarbiausiu Argentinos vyno pramones centru, garsejanti baltais vynais torrontes. Miestuka tenka pasiekti issukus is pagrindinio turizmo kelio, todel daug maziau lankytoju nei Saltoje. Be reikalo. Nors ikyriai kaitino saule, siaute dulketas vejas, Cafayate krito i aki is pirmo zvilgsnio. Purvinokas, patriuses miestukas, bet alsuojantis atsipalaidavusiu ritmu, o zmones - draugiskiausi, sutikti Pietu Amerikoje.

Saligatviu apelsinmedziai nokina vaisius, prie baznycios skraidzioja buriai siuksliu, siestos metu, isskyrus centrines aikstes istaigas turistams, niekas nedirba.

Vejas i vakara isibegejo mini tornado ritmu, o kitas rytas pasitiko zvarbiu salciu. Hostelyje patare aplankyti didziausia apylinkes vynine, bet as, nemegdamas disneylandu, nuejau i nediduke Vasija Secreta.

Mini muziejus, gardus vynas isragavimui. Geriausia vyna, beje, gamykla eksportuoja i uzjurius, Argentinoje jo nenusipirksi.

Cafayate - one of the most important wine centres in Argentina famous for white wines torrontes. It´s little bit out of the main tourist way so less people visit the place. I liked Cafayate straight away.

It´s dirty and dusty but very relaxed and friendliest place so far in South America. Oranges on the trees around main plaza, garbage at the church entrance, almost everything closed during siesta. First day was so hot and dusty, second day woke up cloudy and cold. I visited small bodega called Vasija Secreta to taste fruity white wine and check tiny museum.

By the way the best wine they make is exported and you can´t buy it in Argentina.

Salta su Cafayate jungia grazuolis kelias skambiu pavadinimu Quebrada de Cafayate. 2009 rugsejo devinta diena, devinta valando ryte, dvirati paguldes bagazineje, lipau i autobusa, nugabenusi iki Garganta del Diablo, vos ne penkiasdesimt kilometru nuo vyno miestuko. Quebrada de Cafayate pasizymi ne rodenu ar kitu meistru, bet gamtos iskaltomis kalnuose sklupturomis bei statiniais. Garganta del Diablo bei salia esantis El Anfiteatro - didingos erdves kalno viduje, bet, deja, ypac antrasis pilni turistu ir prekeiviu.

Greit prasibeges, sokau ant dviracio. Nors saule kukliai slepesi uz aukstu kalnu, kelias atpirko zvarba. Minti teko nedaug, nes beveik visada dviratis riedejo zemyn. Transporto priemone pasitaike nebloga, stabdziai veike pusetinai.

Pirmasis ir galima sakyti vienintelis keliu trobu kaimukas Santa Barbara kaip ir serijalelele pasitiko saule ir ozkomis bei oziukais. Viena sena barzdote drasiai soko po pravaziuojancio sunkvezimio ratais, vairuotojui sustabdzius, ramiai nuzingsniavo link artimiausio krumo. Gimine, pasilikusi kitoje kelioje puseje, scena stebejo bukais zvilgsniais.

Sustojus prie upes surukyti cigarete, tuoj pat prisistate kalnu erelis, ratus sukes vos keli metrai virs galvos. Netrukus pasirode antras ir trecias, galu gale akrobatinius triukus ora atliko visas sesetukas. Galvojau, bandys suvalgyti peleda, bet po to supratau, kad kaip ir nusitriedes zviblis prie stoties kibinu kiosko, didingi pauksciai laukia kokio kasnio.

Neturejau maisto, todel toliau patraukiau nesumokejes uz sou. ´Gyvunijos pasaulyje´ tema pratese rupuzes skulptura prie kelio, kaktusas kulturistas. Lekiant dvirka zemyn svilpianti veja ausyse karts nuo karto norejosi pakeisti lipniu funk.

Pro sali prajojo du gaucho buriai, isdidziai pozave nuotraukoms.

Pasiekus pusiaukele, kelio pasoneje i dangu kilo El Obelisco, salia uolose susirauke aplinka stebejo vejo nugairinti akmeniniai veidai, stikla seniai prarades langas, prie upes dunksantis lyg neiveikiama pilis Las Castillos. Vejas vis stiprejo, smeliu raizydamas veida, tiek mano, tiek fotiko batareja prase papildymo. Paskutinis keliones etapas susikloste lengvai, minti teko nedaug, pakalne neleido pavargti.

The road from Salta to Cafayate called Quebrada de Cafayate is breath taking. On the 9th of September 2009, 9 o´clock in a morning I took a bus going to Garganta del Diablo, almost 50 km away from wine land. Quebrada de Cafayate is like park of sculptures and constructions made by nature (if you go to church on Sunday I let you name it - made by God). Garganta del Diablo and El Anfiteatro next to it are massive spaces inside of the mountain, unfotunately full of tourists and sellers.

So after short time there I jumped on the bike, the sun was hiding behind the mountains but the road was so easy, going downhill all the time and just silly scenic.

First and only one village by the road called Santa Barbara brought sun and goats running cross the road. Next mountain eagles came, by the end six of them circling above my head.

I was afraid they were going to eat the owl. The toad being made of stone and cactus getting ready for bodybuilding competition were less threatening.

In the middle of the trip El Obelisco by the road and Las Catillos by the river. I was little bit tired and the wind was getting strong lashing sand all over.

Again going downhill was a blessing, it was more like riding slow motorbike.

Uzteks man kaimuku, dulkiu ir folkloro. Noriu i multimilijonini megapoli, pietums valganti neklauzadas vaikus, uzgeriant apleistose gamyklose brandinto smogo taure. Galvojau vaziuoti is Saltos, bet vel kazkas del kazko protestuoja, teks gautis kitu keliu. Jei tureciau muzikini aparata, keliones i Bueanos Aires metu garsai ausiniu laidais teketu taip:

praplesus akis

numigus pietu

placiai uzmerkus akis

Tour de Argentina Nord

2009-09-06T12:20:00.000-07:00

Tilcara
Argentina laikotarpyje tarp pirmojo ir antrojo pasauliniu karu pagal turtinguma tvirtai stovejo septintoje pasaulio saliu lenteles vietoje. Laikai ir vietos pasikeite, bet skirtumas su kaimynine Bolivija - didziulis. Asfaltuoti keliai, modernus autobusai, du-tris kartus didesnes kainos, europietiski vietiniu veidai, tvarkingi restoranai, kur turistu mazuma. Atsidures Tilcaroj velai vakare, nesekmingai bandziau prisibelsti i keliu hosteliu duris. Galvojau teks gulti po medziu (vakarai silti, zydi medziai, isibegeja pavasaris), bet uzklydau i nakvynes namus, priimancius visa para. Gavau kambari su keturiomis lovomis - man, peledai, mazajai bei didziajai kuprinems. Lankytoju be manes nebuvo(sezonas tik prasideda), todel seimininkas ir vienintelis darbuotojas bimbinejo nieko neveikdami, dusa ijungdavo paprasius, pusryciams is savo saldytuvo trauke uogiene, dalinosi kava. Tarsi sveciuotumes pas tolimus gimines, kuriuos sutikai vos kelis kartus.

Tilcara lanko argentinieciai, aplink vien ispanu kalba, europiecius sutikau tik autobusu stotyje. Pagrindine atrakcija - senasis inku fortas, dalinai atstatytas archeologu. Inkai ilga laika, naudodamiesi patogia geografine padetimi, atmusinejo ispanu atakas. Stati kalva, apsupta pastelinemis spalvomis uzpiltu kalnu, virto sunkiai iveikiamu bastionu ir be papildomu itvirtinimu. Tilcara - keliu tukstanciu gyventoju kurortinis miestelis su nedidukemis suvenyru parduotuvemis, nutriususia centrine aikste, restoranais, turizmo agenturomis. Alus - neblogas, vynas - pigus (vietinio, gomuri svelniai kandziojancio puslitris restorane kainuoja 4 litus), mesos populiarumas isvarytu vegetarus is proto. Kulinarija pirstus apsilaizyti, todel vietiniu figuros daznai primena bulkutes. Kokybiskas maistas, geras vynas, po kurio isragavimo nakvot grizau kaip desimtokas po karnavalo.

Between first and scond world wars Argentina was the 7-th richest country in the world. Time changed but still the difference between Bolivia and Argentina is huge. The road and buses are way better, european local faces, the prices are 2-3 times higher. It was difficult to find a place to stay in Tilcara when I arrived. Hostels doors were closed and for a moment I thought I`ll have to sleep on the street (nights are warm, spring in full swing).

Finally I found a hotel open 24 hours, friendly owner and as season just starting I was the only one guest. Tilcara is a litlle resort town where argentinians come to relax. Main attraction - restored Inca fort. Because of handy location incas managed to fight off spaniards for a long time. Nice place surrounded by mountains. The food here is good quality, beer is not too bad, wine is brilliant (little bit more than a euro for a half a litre of house red in restaurant). It`s suicide to be vegetarian cause meat is the king. On the first night I had big chunk of beef and drank tasty wine, I was almost singing going back to hotel.

Purmamarca
Kaimukas miniatiurinis, jei tualetas butu kitame baznytkaimio kraste ir prispirtu reikalas - kelione skubiu zingsniu, sustojant nusipirkti tualetinio popieriaus, uztruktu penkias minutes.

Turistai uzsuka pasigrozeti Purmamarca garsinanciu Cerro de Siete Colores (septynspalvi kalna), ju laukia burys prekeiviu ir uodegas vardan kasnio vizginantys sunys. Lankytojai dazniausia neuzsibuna ne dienos, as nutariau pasilikti porai naktu. Kalnai, ko gero, graziausi, sutikti kelioneje. Rudos ir zalios spalvos, isblyskinti ar pagardinti klodai tarsi sugule idealios fotografijos progai.

Isvaziavus paskutiniam autobusui, aikste mirsta, taciau salutinese gatvelese veikia keli jaukus restoranai, kur groja gitaristas su bugnininku, gali pavalgyti lamos troskinio ir isgerti koki litra alaus.

Nakvynes namuose susiraukusi darbuotoja pasiule kambari su sesiomis lovomis (pasas ir fotikas plojo rankomis). Ramus, tvarkingas kaimukas, nuovada ir baznycia, savivaldybe ir mini autobusu stotis, zmones sveikinasi gatveje. Vienintelis ikyrus dalykas - siautejantis vejas gatvese, dalinantis dulkiu kamuolius dovanu.

Tiny village close to Tilcara is famous for Cerro de Siete Colores (seven colours mountain). Tourists come here for few hours to walk around and buy some souvenirs on the market. I decided to stay two nights and do nothing.

When last bus leaves plaza is empty but there are few cosy restaurants open where you can listen to live music, try lama stew and drink a litre of decent beer. The mountains are the most beautiful I have seen. Brown and green colours mixed in different shades.

Is Purmamarca vaziavau i Salta, pakeiciant autobusa Jujuy. Provincijos centras, purvas ir netvarka, basi gatves vaikai, chuliganiski veidai prie stoties. Autobusu stotyje kazkuo nepatenkinti argentinieciai uztvere pravaziavima, degindami padangas bei sprogdindami petardas. Policija bande uzgesinti, galu gale tai padare atvaziave saunieji gaisrininkai.

As laukiau autobuso stotyje, kur jis nepasirode del padangu maisto. Pasirodo reikejo laukti salutineje gatveje, kai nuejau ten - maistas baigesi ir teko grizti atgal i stoti. Bardakas haha

From Purmamarca I went to Salta changing the bus in Jujuy. Dirty and noisy town, homeless kids asking for money. There was a protest meeting at the entrance to the bus station, the tyres were burning. Nobody told me the bus was leaving from side street because of fire.

I missed the bus and went outside the bus station to wait for a new one. Of course the protest has finished after half an hour and I had to go back to station. Argentina may be better off than Bolivia but it is still messy South America.

Mesa / Meat
Dar budamas Bolivijoje, svajojau apie sultingus, kruvinus kepsnius, kuriais garseja Argentina. Vidutiniam restorane atnesa puse darzo salotu, trecdali kepyklos ir jautienos smota. Galima pirstus nusikandzioti kaip gardu. Tauta, kuri taip moka kepti mesa, i dangu turi pakliuti be eiles.
I couldn´t wait to get to Argentina because of steaks. In restaurant you get big bowl of salad, fresh garlic bread, different salsas and juicy bloody piece of beef. And man they can cook it, the meat is so tender. I´m hungry again-).

Hostelis Saltoje pasitaike jaukus ir draugiskas. Vakar seimininkas surenge barbecue ir vyno svente. As irgi prisidejau-)

Salta la linda
Miestas labai simpatiskas, sviecia saule, parke tupineja palmes, dangu ramsto rimtos baznycios, i kalna kyla budeles, priristos prie virves. Tingiu rasyti, vakar prisiragavom nemazai vyno, ziuredami argentina-brazilija futbolo rungtynes. Placiau papasakos nuotraukos.
The town is amazing, but this time the photos below will tell the story. We had barbecue in hostel yesterday watching football match argentina-brazil and having some wine. Too lazy to write more.

Tilcara ir Purmamarca priklauso Jujuy provincijai ir jums padainuoti sutiko garsus provincijos atlikejas.

Salar de Uyuni

2009-09-01T09:14:00.000-07:00

Atsisveikinti su Bolivija pasirinkau Salar de Uyuni - didziausia druskyna pasaulyje ir salia esancias dykumas, ugnikalnius ir lagunas. Druskynas uzima beveik 11 tukstanciu kvadratiniu kilometru, giliausiose vietose druskos klodas siekia 40 metru. Penkiasdesimt tukstanciu metu pries valinsko pirmininkavima cia telksnojo milziniskas ezeras, desimt amziu atgal susiformavo druskos, o turistai lankytis pradejo devyniasdesimtaisiais.

Beje, sioje Bolivijos vietoje apstu ateities naftos - licio. Kolonizatoriai ateme auksa ir sidabra, bet energetinis metalas ateityje riebiai praturtins vietiniu kisene. Galbut po desimt metu jie lankysis Europoje, o susiraukusios bobutes Pilies gatveje siulys treningus, issiuvinetus trimis tautinemis juostomis, gintarines pelenines ar marskinelius, papuostus profesoriaus Vytauto, lenkiancio Algirdo Mykolo ranka Katedros kolonu seselyje, atvaizdu.

To say goodbye to Bolivia I went to visit Salar de Uyuni - the biggest salt flat in the world and the deserts, volcanoes and lagoonas close by. The salt flat is almost 11 thousand sq metres and in some places the salt is forty metres deep. Fifty thousand years ago it was a massive lake, salt formed ten thousand years ago and first tourists showed up in 90ties.

There is loads of lithium in there and in future bolivinas may get rich. So in twenty years time they will go as tourists to Europe to drink overpriced beer in Temple Bar wearing silly green hats.

Balta balta. Kur dairais? / Snowhite and 7 cactuses
Bolivija gali 'pasigirti' nusiurusiais, duobetais keliais. Potosi-Uyuni kosmaru magistrale ramiai uzimtu prizine vieta. Tratatatata, ikvepiami dulkiu kamuoliai, kalnai ir lamu buriai su zaviais raudonais kaspineliais ausyse pakelej. Uyuni - savartynas vidury lauku, priemes turgu, traukiniu stoti ir milijona turizmo agenturu, siulanciu aplankyti druskyna.

Ilgai nesvarstes, pasirinkau pirma viesbuti ir tura. Ryte susirinko pirmoji ekipazo dalis - vairuotojas Miltonas, katalonieciai Anna ir Cesar bei Veronica is Buenos Aires, per pietus prisijunge prancuzai Caroline ir Renaud, o paradui vadovavo gidas Oscar. Gera kompanija, greit susibiciuliavom, bendraudami anglu/ispanu/gestu kalbomis. Pirmasis sustojimas - kaimukas, kuriame 'barstoma' druska, o kiauliu buriai patruliuoja teritorija.

Kelias druskyne - lygus ir patogus, aplink akinanciai balta spalva ir blyskus kalnu siluetai horizonte. Trumpas sustojimas druska pastatytame viesbutyje, pietus ugnikalnio koju glebyje, bolivietiskas folkloras is varganos dzipo mages.

Salar de Uyuni nusetas keliasdesimt salu, vienoje is ju, IncaHuasi, apsigyveno paskutinis inku vadas, begdamas is Cusco nuo ispanu. Sala okupuota kaktusu, kurie per metus paauga vos viena centimetra. Keletas kaktusu siekia daugiau kaip desimt metru. Vyriskos gimines augalai tiesus kaip vairuotojas po dvieju bokalu per patikrinima, moteriskes pasizymi israiskingomis ataugomis.

Inku vadas paliko sala ir, grizdamas atgal, papuole i nelaisve ir buvo uzumustas. Peledai nusifotografavus su Turbinho, vaziavom palydeti saules, gerti vyna ir sokineti (vakare apsilanko saltis).

Bolivia is famous for bad roads and the one from Potosi to Uyuni is one of the worst. Uyuni is just a shithole in the middle of nowhere with market, train station and many tourist agencies offering a trip to Salar. I booked the first one I was offered. In the morning first part of group met - catalans Anna and Cesar, Veronica from Buenos Aires and the driver Milton. After the lunch french couple Caroline and Renaud plus our guide Oscar joined us. Nice and friendly people, I made the right choise not making a choice in the first place. First stop - village where people work with salt and pigs taking care of security business.

Salt hotel and snowhite colour all around.

One of the islands in Salar Uyuni is called IncaHuasi, the place where the last Inca king stayed running from spanish. After while he went back and was captured. Now the cactuses rule the island.

It grows only 1 centimetre per year, some are more than 10 metres high (you do the math).

For sunset we went to drink bolivian wine, jump and get cold on the salt flat.

Roziniai flamingo ir dulketos padangos / Pink flamingos vs Dusty tyres
Po suraus miego (nakvojom namuke is druskos, kiekviena karta verciantis, nuo sienos nubraukta druska pasudydavo lova) Miltonas nuvairavo i San Juan kaimuka.

12 amziuje cia gyveno Lipez gentis, kuris mumifikuodavo mirusius, veliau laidodami tusciaviduriuose koralu burbuluose (pries tai buvusio ezero ir ugnikalniu lavos sokio vaisius). Amzinam poilsiui guldydavo su indais, instrumentais, drabuziais. Zyniuoniai jau tada atlikdavo labatomija, pasirinkdami stiprius jaunuolius, kuriems, isgrezus skyle galvoje, pasalindavo dalele smegenu. Pacientai tapdavo urlaganais - be nuomones, aklai vykdantys paliepimus. Gyvendavo vos kelis metus, spedami sudalyvauti ne viename musyje be baimes, pirmose gretose.

Toliau lekem dykuma link vulkano, tingiai puksiancio dumu kamuoliais.

Pietus salia lagunos, kurios vandenyje ganesi buriai roziniu flamingo. Rozine spalva ne todel, kad valgo barbes, pauksciai maitinasi raudonu planktonu. Maziukai baltuoja plunksnomis, o daugiau palese, suauge flamingo puikuojasi ryskios spalvos apredais. Salia esancioje lagunoje ju strapaliojo dar daugiau, turbut rinko taryba, valdyba, pirmininka, sekretoriu ir netikusi kontrolieriu.

Nauja dykuma ir sugedes kitos grupes dzipas. Musu vairuotojas pilnas energijos (puse kilogramo kokos lapu uz zando suteike jegu) pasiryzo padeti ir beveik vienas pakeite pora padangu. Sustojo daugiau keliautoju, o mes didziavomes, turedami toki supermena soferi. Po pusvalandzio ir musu saunusis dzipas prarado padangos ora, kovodamas su klastingu dykumos akmeniu. Miltonas, tarsi F-1 komandos narys, operacija atliko akimirksniu. Beje, dykuma israizyta vezemis, salia - Cile, naktimis vyksta kontrabandniai-barteriniai mainai, is Bolivijos kokainas, is Ciles vogtos masinos. Pasiekem nakvynes vieta jau temstant, aukstis 4600 metru, pradeda mausti galva, naktis uzmigdo -10 temperatura.

After salty sleep (the house was made of salt and pieces of it would fall into the bed every time turning around) we went to San Juan Village.

In 12th century Lepiz tribe lived there. They used to mummify dead and put inside of the huge empty coral bubbles. The magicians performed labotomy choosing young strong guys. 'Doctors' would remove part of the brain and 'pacients' became short living but perfect soldiers fighting without fear. I guess nobody wanted to have a pint with them afterwards.

The road led through desert with lazy volcano in front puffing clouds of smoke.

Lunch next to the lagoon where pink flamingos occupied the water. The birds eat red plankton, young are still white, the older more and more pink each year.

We had to stop after to help change the other group's jeep tyres.

Our driver Milton did the job. What a legend with a half kilo of coca leaves in his mouth and full of energy.

Later our jeep's tyre was damaged but when you have a superman for a driver it takes just few minutes to change it. The desert is covered in tracks, Chile is very close, so at night the desert is busy - cocaine to Chile, stolen cars to Bolivia. Stop for the night next to different lagoona, minus 10 at night, 4600 metres above sea level and my head didn't like it.

Ugnikalnis vardu miegas / Sleepy volcano
Anstyvas rytas, visos visatos zvaigzdes danguje, saldytuvu pasivertes dzipas. Trecios dienos pasiekimas - ungnikalnis Sol de Manana. Burbuliuojantis, snypsciantis, isikures penkiu kilometru aukstyje, smirdantis kaip vezikas.

Prancuzu pora keliavo i Cile, nudumem link sienos, sustodami Zalioje lagunoje bei Salvador Dali dykumoje. Ekcentrikas niekada nesilanke Bolivijoje, bet pries daugeli metu ugnikalnio issautos uolos sugule horizonte tarsi genijaus paveiksluose.

Bendra nuotrauka saunausio ekipazo konkursui pasienyje, atsisveikinimai ir po to as atguliau miegoti ant galines sedynes.

Galva plese kaip sausio pirmos ryta, atsisakiau pietu. Prabudau jau temstant, masina nuduso purvinam kaimuke valanda nuo finiso. Oscar suorganizavo taksi i Uyuni, kur pernakvojes, ryte isvaziavau i Argentina.

Kelias vel super tragiskas, teko saugotis, kad nuo lentynos ant galvos neuzkristu kelio duobiu iskratytas lagaminas ir papietauti keliais kilogramais dulkiu. Perejus i Argentina, pasigavau autobusa i Tilcara ir pirma karta po Naujosios Zelandijos atsiduriau nepazistamoje vietoje, be aiskios nakvynes vietos pries vidurnakti.

Very early morning, all the stars of the world in the sky, stone cold inside of the car. In an hour we reached Sol de Manana volcano five kilometres above sea level. It is semi active and likes to bubble and talk.

The french couple were heading to Chile and we all went to the border stopping on the way to check Green Lagoon and Salvador Dali desert. The painter had never visited Bolivia but the rocks on sand look like one of his paintings.

Dusty border post in the middle of nowhere, goodbyes and after that the day was finished for me. The head was exploding and I went to sleep in a car till early evening when our jeep finally broked down.

Taxi to Uyuni, cold room in hotel, early bus to Argentinian border. I promise I will never complain about the roads again but it was really horrible going to Argentina. I walked to the other side, took a bus to Tilcara and first time since New Zealand arrived in a place I don't know at all before midnight.

Bolivija siuncia daina ansamblio, kuris daznai skambejo keliones Salar de Uyuni metu.

Setono kasyklos / Devil´s miner

2009-08-27T05:20:00.001-07:00

Sidabro, deja, neradau, nors didvyriskai ropojau i gilias Cerro Rico sachtas. Potosi, miestas salia turtingo kalno, 17 a. vidury spindejo prabanga, galingomis baznyciomis, o gyventoju skaiciumi lenke Madrida. Ispanu ponams sidabra kase vietiniai indenai bei is Afrikos atplukdyti vergai. Potosi tuo metu buvo pasaulio pinigine, darbininkai lenkdavo nugaras sesiu menesiu pamainose, neiseidami i pavirsiu, daugiau kaip astuoni milijonai mire vardan brangaus metalo. Kai lengvai pasiekiami sidabro lobiai buvo issunkti, miestas krito gilyn i vargo bedugne. 90-tuju vidury Potosi vos kvepavo ir nuleides galva prieme vieno is vargingiausiu Pietu Amerikos miesto titula. Dabar, Bolivija valdant socialistui prezidentui, turtingiausias pasaulio vargsas po truputi atsigauna.

Potosi in the 17th century became one of the biggest and wealthiest cities in the world. Massive churches, rich houses were built. All to do with silver found in the mountain next to town called Cerro Rico. The miners - indigenous people and slaves from Africa worked six months shifts staying inside, more than 8 millions of them died. When easily reached silver has gone the city went into decline. 90ties were the worst times and only very poor people who had no other place to go stayed. Potosi was one the poorest cities in South America. Now things changing little by little with socialist president in La Paz.

Pasiryzes turui i kalno vidurius, su smagia, internacionaline kompanija buvau apredytas skudurais, padabintas salmu ir auliniais.

Pirma stotele - darbininku turgus, kur gali isigyti dinamito (Potosi ji gali nusipirkti bet kas ir bet kiek, jokiu leidimu ar klausimu), 96 laipsniu alkoholio, kokos lapu, irankiu, salmu ir visokio kito velnio. Paemem dinamito dovanu beplusantiems sidabrakasiams ir duobetu keliu nusikratem i gamykla, kurioje uolienos perdirbamos i sidabra ir kitas naudingas medziagas. Dvidesimt tonu akmenu atnesa apie 15 kilogramu blizgancio metalo, patalpose nezmoniskas chemijos kvapas, saugumo reikalavimai pamirsti ir palaidoti.

Toliau aukstyn link iejimo i sachta. Viena mergina atsisake keliones po desimties pirmu metru tuneliu, dvi dalyves nesutiko leistis zemyn siauru takeliu veliau. Teko siek tiek ropoti, slinkti susilenkus, aplink dulkes ir karstis.

Pradedantys darbininkai uzdirba iki 100 vietiniu tugriku (apie 11 euru) uz astuoniu valandu darbo diena, vidutinis stazas siekia 45 metus (cia amzius ir dazniausia ne i pensija, o tiesiai i kapus).

Oficialiai dirbti gali pradeti astuoniolikameciai, bet, mirus tevui, vaikai pradeda nuo 14-15 metu. Setoniskas salygas pakelti padeda stiprioji snapse, nuolat ziaumojami kokos lapai energijai palaikyti ir juodas jumoras.

Sutiktas Simtas Sesi Simtai (visi sachtininkai didziuojasi pravardemis)dirba ketvirti amziaus, jam 53, atrodo septyniasdesimties. Rimti vyruciai, kurie su dinamitu zaidzia tarsi tai butu plastelinas. Ju neisgasdintu ir tuzinas medvedevu, apsiredziusiu supermeno kostiumais, deganciomis bombomis siknoje.

Pasitaiko atveju, kai vienam is ju pasiseka ir rasto sidabro pakanka sociam gyvenimui. Kiti, tikedamiesi praturteti, loterijos bilietus perka mokedami sveikatos kreditais.

I decided to go inside the mountain to look for some silver. Dressed up for occasion first we went to the miner´s market to buy presents.

You can get strong alcohol (96 percent), coca leaves, dynamite, soft drinks, helmets, etc. Potosi is the place to buy dynamite (take a note) cause nobody asks for permit and anybody can buy as much as they need.

On the way to the mine the bus stopped at the factory - strong smell of chemicals, no safety regulations, rock´n´roll. Twenty tones of rocks give about 15 kilos of silver.

Finally entrance to the Devil´s mine. One girl freaked out after two minutes in the tunnel, two more headed back outside when we reached narrow passage deep down. It´s dusty and hot, sometimes you have to crawl.

Miners who started not long time ago get around 100 bolivianos (11 euros) for eight hours shift, usually finish their carrer at the age of 45 by the way of dying. Oficially you are allowed to work when you are eighteen, but some kids start at 14 when the father dies.

To survive in the mine workers drink, chew coca leaves all the time and joke mucho. All miners have nicknames and some are as dirty as tunnels´walls.

We met a guy called Hundred Six Hundred who is 53 and works in the mines for 25 years. What a legend and he looks seventy years old on the good day. Of course there are stories going around about miners who found big chunk of silver and now live like kings. I think that´s the reason some of the workers are ready to pay with their health to buy tickets for that kind of lottery.

Po sterilaus Sucre baltumo Potosi pavaisino spalvu gama. Zavus nutriuselis - imantriai israizyta fasada ´puosia´nuogu laidu nusileidusi priemienes lempute, vargsas diedukas, kulniuojantis palei didinga centrine katedra, svilpaujantis vejas isdauztuose centrinio turgo languose. Beje, Potosi pamalonintas auksciausio pasaulio miesto vardu (neskaitant mazesniu miestuku iki 4 tukstanciu gyventoju) 4090 metru aukstyje. Sunkoka kvepuoti uzlipus i menkiausia kalniuka, bet galvos nebemaudzia, tipo uzsigrudianu gyvendamas Sucre.

I love Potosi, Sucre was so white and here the colours take the place. Strange feeling - nice but ruined down buildings, poor people and rich history. Potosi is the highest city in the world (but few little towns) at 4090 metres above sea level. It´s difficult to breathe sometimes but my head is not sore. Staying in Sucre for a while really helped.