Keliones pabaigoje masina vezlio greiciu prakose per debesis ir, pakilus aukstyn, i juos buvo galima pazvelgti is auksto.
Milford Sound is remote place and mostly only tour buses going back leave the village. I thought it will be a bitch to hitchhike. Luckily two snowboarders from France and Austria were driving to Wanaka, the place I wanted to go next.
Loads of hip hop on the way, at the end of trip the car pushed through the clouds and when we went up the mountain again we could see the clouds below. I could see saint bono and u2 playing on the cloud, of course it was charity gig.
Wanaka, nedidelis miestukas su teisinga atmosfera, galetu buti Queenstown sauskelnese. Cia suvaziuoja snieglentininkai, kurie nenori didziojo brolio triuksmo ir komercijos. Atostogu vaziuociau tik cia. Gyvenimas vyksta bendruomeneje, bet be kaimo provincialumo. Smagus barai, jaukios kavines, kelios meno galerijos, 8mm kino teatras, gera muzika, draugiski gyventojai. Pramankstinti kojas, uzlipau i artimiausia kalna, nuo kurio atsiveria Wanaka ezeras. Miestuke nemazai nekilnojamo turto agenturu, manau, kad greit Wanaka pasikeis ir virs dar viena komercine industrija.
Wanaka I guess is like Queenstown was some time ago. Not so touristy, relaxed, small and cool. Snowboarders and locals live in peaceful community. I am afraid that the big number of property companies in town suggests that things will change soon and Wanaka will become next very touristy place to go.
Pailsejes smagiame kaimuke, grizau i trasa su tikslu pasiekti Franz Josef, esanti uz 300 kilometru. Masinos nestojo, per tvora zvelge milziniskos, gaurotos karves, kojos jau salo balo salo. Pralaukus pora valandu, pametejo 10 kilometru link tikslo ir tada netrukus sustojo aukso puodas. Jessie is Queenstown, dirbantis vienintelio vakaru pakrantes penkiu zvaigzduciu viesbucio statybose Franz Josef, vaziavo i darba. Vakaru pakrantes kelias - vienas is puikiausiu, kylantis i kalnus tarp ezeru ir krentantis zemyn prie vandenyno. Kiwis pasitaike draugiskas ir kelione susikloste kaip eskursija, sustojant graziose vietose.
Porai valandu uzsukom i papludimi. Bendrakeleivis isplauke gaudyti veziu, as blaskiausi po papludimi, apziurejau skulpturas, bandziau braidyti ir kovojau su musiu armijomis (sioje dalyje auga atograzu miskai).
Papludimys nepazymetas zemelapyje, nedaug zmoniu ji zino (galima daug veziu pagaut), todel varinejau kaip Robinzonas laukinej gamtoj, nei dvasios aplink.
Grizdami is papludimio, sustojom prie upes. Upeje gyvena unguriai, kurie uzauga iki 2 metru ir ant svarstykliu persoka desimt kilogramu riba. I vandeni imestos du papjauti juros eziai priviliojo keleta mazesniu unguriu. Beje, juros eziu vidaus dalys valgomos, paragavau, skonis kaip duonos ismirkytos vandenuje su zuvu viduriais.
Beprotiskas kelias, nes gamta, atrodo, keiciasi kas akimirka. Viena minute pakeles zole apsnerksnijusi, kita - spigina saule, kutendama israiskingus medzius.
Primine Vondelpark Amsterdame, tik ten ispuoseleta zmogaus. Paskutinis sustojimas pries Franz Josef - ezero pakrante su tokiais zandais:
kairys
desinys
I left chilled out Wanaka and headed to Franz Josef 300 km away. No car stopped for a long time and I nearly freezed my balls off. I got only 10 kilometres after two hours and in few minutes bingo - Jessie, the guy form Queenstown working in Franz Josef, was going to work. West coast road is amazing going up to the mountains between lakes and falling down close to the ocean. The driver is a legend, the journey was like a tour stopping at nice places.
We went to the beach, Jessie went snorkelling to catch cray fish and I explore the place fighting armies of sand flies coming from rain forest.
The beach not marked on the map so no people around at all. On the way back we stopped to feed sea urchins to eels. I tried some of the sea urchin, it doesn't taste good, stupid eels.
West coast road is mad. It changes so often - frosty grass and icy road, short drive away - sunny trees and beaches. It is like Vondelpark in Amsterdam changing every time or maybe it doesn't, you never know:)
Franz Josef ledynas uzvadintas Austrijos imperatoriaus garbei, nes jo tautietis atrado auksciau pamineta salti. Jei as buciau surades ledyna, pakrikstyciau Vytauto Landsbergio vardu, vietiniai mazybiniai vadintu Vicioku.
Peleda atsisake fotografuotis salia Franzo, neseniai pora drasuoliu, nepaisydami barjeru-virviu, ilindo i kita ledyna be gidu ir buvo labai negyvai prispausti krentancio ledo. Paskutiniu metu ledynas traukiasi atgal, darbingomis dienomis gali pajudeti iki metro.
Keletas pasivaiksciojimo taku aplink leidzia apziureti saltanosi is visu pusiu. Desertui vakare nukulniavau tamsiu misku patikrinti sviecianciu vabalu. Siek tiek nejauku, reikia isjungti prozektoriu ir visiskoje tamsoje pasirodo blankus zibureliai kaip kokia kukli kaledu grilianda pries issaunant sampana.
Franz Josef glacier was named after Austrian imperator cause austrian traveller found it (it's so big I can't imagine how they lost it in a first place). You can't go over the fence close to glacier without guide.
Two brave idiots went close to the other glacier without guide and were killed by falling ice. The glacier moves every day, on good day it can travel up to 1 metre.
There are few short and long walks around and I being lazy one did the short ones. Breathtaking views. And here I am on the bridge (maximum 5 people or 3 texans after lunch) thinking that even baby Jesus would love it:)
Icing on cake was short trip to dark forest to see glow warms. I had to kill torchlight and wait in total dark to see the worms forming something like shy christmas light.
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