uno mas?

´Laiko nesustabdyt´trauke storuliu - operisto ir reperisto duetas. Jis, bjaurybe, lekia zuikio, paklaikusiomis akimis automobilio sviesu nuspalvintame kelyje, greiciu. Liko menesis ir as nezinau ka veiksiu. Kazkokiu budu reikia nusigauti i Panama (skristi ar plaukti visa kelia laivu per brangu), po to - autobusu i Hondura, is kurio gruodzio pradzioje skrendu namo. Keliones metu sukuriau ir nubraukiau milijonus planu, bet planai tam i kuriami, kad juos keisti ar ne?

One month to go and I´ve no clue what am going to do. I have somehow to get to Panama (flight or boat all the way are way too expensive), from there by bus to Honduras where I have a flight back home first day of December. I planned last four weeks many times and changed it again and again. I guess the best plan is go with the flow.

Savaitgali patusines su beprociais australais, gyvenanciais ivairiuose zemynuose, kelioms dienoms grizau i gamta. Parque Nacional Tayrona - kvapa gniauziantys balto smelio papludimiai, siekiantys atograzu misko garbanomis besididziuojancias kalvas, prie skaidriu tarsi antikorupcijos komisija Karibu juros vandenu. Kartagenos autobusu stotis isikurusi priemiestyje, i kuri reikia gautis miesto autobusu (hostelyje patare sestis butent i metrocar autobusa, nes pigesniuose negeri dedes gali atimti turta). Priemiesciai - tragiski, siuksliu kruvos, ismatu upes, skarmaluoti vietiniai, duobetos gatves ir t.t. Stotyje pasigavau reikiama autobusa, kuris turejo isvaziuoti tuoj pat. Turejo.. Soferiukas kokia valanda suko ratus aplink stoti, skardziabalsis konduktorius plysavo iki uzkimimo, kol surinkus pilna dardala pajudejom link Santa Marta. Pusiaukeleje, pakeitus autobusa, istorija pasikartojo. Santa Martoje duona pardavinejantis diedukas padejo susirasti tinkama mikruske iki parko vartu. Spejau laiku - uz pusvalandzio parko vartai butu uzdaryti.

Parke baltuoja keletas papludimiu, dviejuose galima apsistoti, as pasirinkau tolimesni Cabo san Juan, iki kurio teko zingsniuoti valanda tamsiu misko keliuku, pasisvieciant telefonu. Pagrindinis papludimis, saugomas uolu, keletas pastatu, vieta palapinems, restoranas, kioskas, arkliu ir asiliuku ansamblis, sunu kvartetas ir burys keliautoju.

Penkios minutes siauru misko takeliu veda i kita papludimi (ten maziausia bangu ir smagiausia plaukioti), dar petakas - nuogaliu papludimys, kur nera zmoniu, bet maudytis Adomo kostiumu nepatartina, nes bangos tasko be gailescio, sviesdamos i smelio/zvyro dugna.

Party weekend in Cartagena and after I went to Parque Nacional Tayrona. Cartagena´s bus station is in city´s suburbs so I had to get a town bus from centre. The suburbs are really poor, garbage and shit on every corner and in the water. Argentina was brilliant for bus service and I forgot how messy South America can be. I was assured the bus will leave straight away but it took an hour circling round the station trying to get more people in before we left to Santa Marta. Same thing happened when I changed the bus on the way. Luckily I made to the park gates just before it closed. There are few silly beautiful white sand beaches surrounded by rain forest hills by clear Caribbean sea but only in two it is possible to stay. I chose the furthest one - Cabo san Juan and walked there in the dark through the forest. Cabo has a main beach with place for camping and hammocks, few buildings, restaurant, mini shop, gang of dogs, band of horses and donkeys plus bunch of backpackers. Five minutes away by walk there is quiet beach where calm sea is the best for swimming, five more - naked beach, no people around.

Mano grafomanijos rasineliai paremti paprasta aritmetika - dazniausia raidemis aplipinta formule teispaudzia du plus du, kartais issteniu x ir y. Parka ´nupiesiu´ pirmoko lygio sarasu.

Juodas sarasas

Oras
Papludimiams, kaip Lietuvos biudzetui lituku, mirtinai reikia saules. Islepinta princese pasirode vos viena diena. Todel ir skaidrus vanduo, ypac taskomos stipraus vejo, pasidenge nematomu sydu.

Kainos
Maista bei isgerimus i papludimi atgabena arkliai ir asiliukai. Manau, jie neblogai uzdirba, nes kainos - kosmines, dvigubai brangiau nei Kartagenoj. Siek tiek atsinesiau maisto kuprineje, bet as ne keturkojis ir teko islaidauti.

Zmones
Amerikieciu kruva, rekianti ir skanduojanti pries isgeriant kiekviena alaus stikline. Ir jie vis dar nesupranta kodel ju nemegsta?

Nuobodybe
Guleti an smelio, stengiantis idegti kiekvieno kuno milimetra, atsibosta po sekundes, o daugiau pramogu kaip ir nera.

Dede Miegas
Hamakai sukabanti salia vienas kito centimetro atstumu, tad kiekviena karta, besisukdamas ant kito sono, trenkiesi i kaimyna. Kaimynas atsilygina tuo paciu.

oi kaip as megstu skustis haha

Sveciu sarasas


Gyvunijos pasaulyje
Pora miniatiuriniu suniuku, diena snaudzianciu pavesyje, naktimis skardziais balseliais gasdinanciu apstulbusius krabus.

Driezai sprinteriai tabaluojanciomis uodegomis, skubantys pasislepti zoleje (ne visada pavyksta).

Neklauzados bezdziones, lauzancios sakas aukstai medziuose prie parko vartu. Simtai violetiniu krabu su pakeltais ´grebliais´ gynybineje pozoje, treptelejus koja tipenantys sleptis urvuose. Pauksciai, suraitantys tokias vokalines partijas, kad Mamontovui is gedos eziukas nulinktu. Skruzdziu armijos, gabenancios lapus daugiabuciu statybai.

Zmones
Sutikau pora pazistamu, prisnekejom upes, kol isjungus generatoriu papludimys eina miegoti.

Oras
Papludimiai, atslinkus vakarui ir sulijoms grasinant audra, nusidazo niuriu saldumu.

Griuvesiai
Kopimas i kalva, kur 5 amziuje isikure ciabuviu kaimelis. Dabar tai - griuvesiai, pora bakuziu, indenu seima, asiliukas ir arklys.

Dede Miegas
Kai nepavyksta uzmigti, visada galima paklausyti juros atliekamos simfonijos.

I´ll present Parque Nacional Tayrona with the help of simple lists

Black list

Weather
Sun showed up only once. The beach without it is like Ireland without guinness and knackers.

Prices
All the food and drink is brought by horses and donkeys. I guess they get paid well cause everything is double price.

People
Group of americans shouting and chanting everytime they drank a glass of beer. Enough said.

Boredom
I´m not big fan of lying on the beach all day trying to improve my tan. You can´t even rent a snorkeling gear there.

Sleeping arrangements
Hammocks are so close to each other and everytime you turn around the neighborhood will feel it for sure.

Guest list

Animal planet
Two puppies sleeping in the shade all day and frightening the shit out of poor crab at night.

Fast geckos running away to the safety.

Army of ants busy bringing the stuff for construction (no recession here). Hundreds of blue crabs watching you from distance ready to hide in the holes. Monkeys high in the trees near the park entrance silently running around.

People
I met some people I know and we had long conversation before the generator was shut and beach went to sleep.

Weather
The beaches look darkly sweet in evening with black clouds trying to reach the water.

Ruins
Short hike up to the hill where village was started 15 hundred years ago. Now it´s the place for ruins, couple of huts, indian family, horse and donkey.

Sleeping arrangements
After you kicked your neighbor and he/she returned the favor the sea simphony always helps you to sleep.

This time for your ears only kind of hip colombian music. Me myself and I like it.

Geltonu plytu miesto magija / Magic of yellow bricktown

Strigau Kolumbijoj. Planavau jau si savaitgali plaukti i Panama, bet Kartagena tarsi supanciojo ryskiaspalviais, nematomais siulais. Vienas is -iausiu miestu kelioneje, nors ir labai turistinis, taciau architektura, zmones ir gyvenimo ritmas nubraukia minusus. Senamiesti juosianti 11 kilometru ilgio gynybine siena kazkada saugojo nuo izuliu piratu puolimo, dabar tai tarsi zenklas, zymintis turistu zona. Ju cia daugybe - gringo ir kolumbieciu, prekeiviai issijuose vaiko abi grupes, siulydami suvenyru, apyrankiu, krepsiu, kokainu ir kitu suduku.






Kolonijiniai pastatai - kai kurie atnaujinti, kiti nutrupejusiu makiazu svyti Kolumbijos veliavos spalvomis, dominuoja geltona. Apsistojau salia senamiescio esanciame rajone, kur peciais trinasi vietiniu namai, pigus hosteliai, restoranai, turgus, valkataujantys sunys, benamiai, stalai, prie kuriu virve pritvirtinti mobilus telefonai, siulo pigius pokalbius, neturintiems aparato, sulciu ir maisto kioskai (laimi gardziausios lulo sultys), etc. Charakteringa vieta.



Hostelyje gyvena papuga, vezle su dviems mazais vezliukais, pora sunu ( baltas visiskas kibiras, nuolatos lojo bjaurybe) ir zuvu gauja akvariume, tarakono saldytuve neiskaiciuoju.


Cia susirinko smagi kompanija is angliskai kalbanciu saliu, su jais ir leidau laika. Tradiciniai vakariniai pasivaiksciojimai rajonu ieskant skaniausio gatves maisto (kulinarija labai pigi ir saldi, ivairus saldestai is dideliu stiklainiu, ant groteliu kepta mesa ar idaryti kukuruzu paploteliai (arepas), teslos lazdeles, keptos aliejuje, su suriu), uzbaigiant tradicine sulciu stikline.

So I´m kind of stuck in Colombia. Planned to go to Panama this weekend but Cartagena is just too amazing to leave soon. It´s very touristy at the same time but the architecture, people and lifestyle overwrite all bad things. Old town is a maze of colonial buildings and houses painted in bright colours of Colombia´s flag, yellow is the main one. I´m staying in the neighborhood next to it. Funky mix of local houses, cheap hostels, shops, restaurants, street food and juice places (lulo juice is the best), homeless dogs and people, junkies, etc.


In the hostel we have parrot, turtle with two tiny turtle ninja babies, couple dogs (the white one is retarted, little bollix barks all the time), gang of fish and the cockroach in the fridge.

I met nice people from english speaking countries and I hang out with them most of the time. In evening we would go for best street hunting, finishing with tradicional glass of juice.

Kartagena grozi dalina prie Karibu juros, todel dauguma gyventoju - juodaodziai vergu palikuoniai. Merginos stambokos iki negalejimo aptemptais drabuziais.

Vargingas miestas, bet toliau prie juros esantis rajonas, kur dangu bjauroja modernus daugiaauksciai viesbuciai bei gyvenamieji namai, priima turtingus kolumbiecius. Ten apsilankiau vos desimciai minuciu. Purvini papludimiai (deja, mieste nera nei vieno padoraus papludimio), kur issidrebusiu ant gultu baltapilviu storuliu pedas masazuoja moteriskes, aplink sukasi burys prekiautoju.

Daugiausia laiko praleidziau savo rajone, kartais prasivaiksciodamas senamiesciu. Vakar salia esanciame skvere rinkosi keliautojai is viso pasaulio isgerti alaus ir pasidalinti istorijoms. Nemazai kanadieciu bei amerikieciu per Centrine keliauja i Pietu Amerika auto priemonemis. Belaukdami keltu is Panamos atplaukianciu motociklu ar automobiliu dalis ju, uzburti Kartagenos, nutaria likti keliems menesiams.






Cartagena is next to Caribbean sea so most of the people here are of african slaves descent. City doesn´t look rich but the neighborhood of new modern highrise buildings down the coast is the home for colombians with money. I went there and left after ten minutes. The beach is dirty (no decent city beach in Cartagena unfortunately), full of white fatsies getting foot massages and being ´attacked´by street sellers. I spent most of the time in neighborhood I stay, sometimes going to old town for a walk.






Last night in the square next to us big group of travellers got together to drink beer and share stories. Some americans and canadians drive all the way down through Central to South America. You can´t go overland from Panama so cars and motorbikes are shipped to Cartagena. I met few people who while waiting for auto fall in love with the city and decided to stay for a while.





Salia Kartagenos gyvena nedidelis vulkanas pilna burna purvo. Keistas jausmas nusileisti laipteliais i purvo mase, negali pajudeti, kad ir kaip bandytum irtis, o ir i dugna nugrimzti neimanoma. Pagulejus purve gera pusvalandi, salia esanciame ezere nusiprausti padeda nuolat muddy muddy kartojancios moteriskes. Tad jeigu uz lango pyla lietus (Kartagenoj lietaus sezonas prasidejes ir po gero ´duso´ gatves patvinsta) ir balos prisipildo purvo - siulau pabandyti.


There is mud volcano not far away from Cartagena. It´s a very strange feeling when you can´t move a bit or sink deep. After lying there the women who kept saying muddy muddy will help you to wash the dirt off. So if it´s raining where you are now and streets getting muddy I would highly recommend to try it.

Rutai panorejus, peledai paliepus - ziupsnelis saldzios kolumbietiskos muzikos.

Ankstu sestadienio ryta, dar bunant dziungliu miestelyje, garsiais cumbia ritmais plysavo kaimynu namas. Deja, pazadinusia muzika garsino ne mergina, gimtadienio proga prarijusi pora balionu, bet diedukas, panasus i vokalista.


Porro muzikeles taipogi populiarios.


Man labiausia limpa.