Ryte nuprakaitavau i uosta. Kelione i Manaus, milziniska miesta Amazones sirdyje, truko tris dienas. Sikart laivas pasitaike kelis kartus didesnis - daugiau erdves pakabinti hamakus, kartu daugiau bardako. Be manes laive plauke keletas gringo, anksti uzsidarianciame bare plysavo popsas. Antra diena plaukiant arciau kranto galejai pasigrozeti kaimukais, medziais, upes paradantozes isgrauztomis saknimis, viena vakara salia prasinesusiais delfinais, pamojuoti prie kranto issirikiavusiems kaimieciams. Laivas plyso ivairiausiu dydziu pypliais. Mazieji nenaudeliai anksti ryte pradedavo zviegimo koncerta, diena smirineje pirmyn atgal koncerta pratesdavo pries miega.
Amazones regione vietiniai teka/veda labai anksti, daugumai tai - vienintelis universitetas ar karjeros aukstumos. Manaus atsidurem velai vakare, keista vieta - ilgakakliai daugiauauksciai, storapilviai pastatai vidury dziungliu, nakti issimiegojau tam paciam laive, o anksti ryte patraukiau ieskoti greitojo katerio i Tabatinga. Pasiseke kaip Rumunijai istojus i EU - vienintelis kateris per savaite turejo isplaukti po pusvalandzio, o likusiu brazilisku pinigu centas i centa kaip tik ir uzteko bilietui. 3 kart valio ir visiems stalams koldunu! Greitasis agregatas vardu Puma primine autobusa - tik sedimos vietos, nemokamas maistas (visiskai nebeturejau grynu ir tai buvo issigelbejimas), ekranuose besikeiciantys holivudo sedevrai. Lekem kaip Usain Bolt, sustodami uzsipilti dopingo pluduriuojanciose degalinese. Nuskridom per dvi nuolat apsiniaukusias dienas, paskutini keliones pusvalandi kateris, dingus elektrai, vandeni skrode visiskoje tamsoje.
Back to Santarem and after spending a night in terrible hotel Brazil in a morning I took a boat to Manaus, massive city in the middle of Amazon region. This time the boat was way bigger, more space for hammocks and more mess too. Few gringos chose the same three days trip. It was little bit boring, only on second day you could see more of the villages and forest. The boat was full of little kids who specially in evening before sleep and early morning tried to outcry each other.
People in Amazon start families very young, for most of them it's the only university or career. We arrived in Manaus late evening and I slept on the same boat one more night before going to look for fast boat to Tabatinga. I was so lucky - the only boat in a week was leaving in 30 minutes and the brazilian money I had was just enough for the ticket. The fast one called Puma is more like bus on the water - only seating places, free food and holiwood bullshit nonstop on the tv screen. It took me two days to get to Tabatinga.
Tabatinga - pasienio miestukas, pilkuojantis Brazilijos, Kolumbijos ir Peru zemiu sankirtoje. Tragiskas uostas, lentos vietoj tilteliu, nustekenti mediniai pastatai. Daugumoje pasienio vietoviu susirenka 'sauni' chebra, o Tabatinga pasizymi kaip ir nesaugus kontrabandos centras. Nenoredamas, kad uz nuplysusius sportbacius patiestu koks vietinis henrikas d, kulniavau i salia esanti Kolumbijos atitikmeni Leticia (miestukai sujungti ir kad perejau siena supratau tik is ispanu kalbos uzrasu). Eiti teko gera pusvalandi, pralenkiant diskotekas, apsviestas maksimum dviem blyksianciomis, spalvotomis lemputemis, kuriose pagal urlabyto hitus girtus jaunuolius sokdino i Amazone panasios prostitutes (ta prasme - dideles ir purvinos), stengiantis nenusilauzti kojos neapsviestose gatvese. Kolumbijoje eiles tvarka susiradau - bankomata, interneta, galu gale miniatiurini hosteli, apsupta dziungliu augmenijos bei priglaudusi skardziabalsiu pauksciu buri su i peraugusia ziurke panasiu gyvunu.
Kita diena susirinkau anstpaudus (pasienio postu nera, gali vaikscioti laisvai, bet keliaujant toliau reikia zymiu pase) - iki pasimatymo Brazilija bei labas dienas Kolumbija. Pries penketa metu i Leticia nekisciau nosies, bet dabar tai super saugi vieta - simtai kariskiu su automatais, karines bazes, patikrinimo punktai pagrindiniuose keliuose. Vaikinukas is hostelio, vaziuodamas dviraciu, filmavo miestuka ir netyciomis uzfiksavo kareivines. Greit buvo sulaikytas, nuveztas i nuovada ir tik po valandos tardymo paleistas. Leticia centras tvarkingas, pergrustas parduotuviu ir restoranu. Taciau apie vietove sunku spresti vien pavaiksciojus centre (praleides pusdieni Vilniaus sienamiestyje pagalvotum, kad visi lietuviai vairuoja vokiskus limuzinus, o trusikus pagal kiausu islinkima siunasi pas Armaniu Jurgi Milane). Nusukus i salutines gatveles Leticia labiau primena Azija - duobetos, neasfaltuotos tarpugatves, vargingi, mediniai namai, pusplikiai vaiku buriai. Ispudi sustiprina mopedu, motociklu, netgi keletos tuk tuku karaliavimas gatvese plus karts nuo karto dingstanti elektra ir indeniski vietiniu veidai.
Maloni naujiena - daug mazesnes kainos nei Brazilijoje, uz pora euru gali sukirsti vadinamaji almuerzo (kaip menus Bolivijoje) - sriuba, antras patiekalas bei sulciu stikline. Pasiganes simpatisku miestuku bei nudeges kaitrios saules deka nosi, kuri dabar atrodo kaip socialdemokratas po suvaziavimo, ryt skrendu i Kartagena. Vienintelis budas keliauti is Leticia toliau i Kolumbija yra skristi, nes dziungles aplink kontroliuoja FARC, kurie megsta pagrobti koki uzsienieti ir paprasyti riebios ispirkos. Kartagena - patogiausia vieta testi kelione, galejau vaziuoti per Venesuela is Manaus, bet as labai nemegstu chavez ir jo komunistines Tado Blindos politikos. Tuo labiau kelionese sutikti likimo broliai peike Venesuelos pareigunus, nebuvo suzaveti zmonemis, o kolumbiecius gyre issijuose.
Tabatinga - small border town where Brazil, Colombia and Peru meet for a drink or two. Usually border towns are dogdy ones and Tabatinga is famous as not so safe smuggling centre. I decide to walk to colombian town connected to it called Leticia where I found a cosy hostel surrounded by jungle trees, birds and an animal who looks like massive rat. I wouldn't go to Leticia five years ago but now because of heavy army presence the town is extremly safe. There is no border post so you need to get the stamps in police office if you want to travel further away. Centre of Leticia is clean and full of shops and restaurants. But you can't judge the place by going to centre only.
Life on the side streets is very different - bad roads, poor wooden houses, kids playing with empty plastic bottles. It reminds me Asia a lot plus motorbikes and scooters even few tuk tuks on every corner, indigenous people and time to time no electricity. The prices are not so high as in Brazil, almuerzo (same as menus in Bolivia) costs less than two euros, for that you get soup, main course and glass of juice. Tomorrow I'm flying to Cartagena, the plane is the only way to go further, there are no road and jungle around is controlled by FARC who love to kidnap foreigners and ask for fat ransom.
1 comment:
Kolumbietiska muzika dar nepasidalinsi? :)
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