Monday, November 16, 2009

Kava ir apelsinai / Coffee and oranges

Palikes niuru Panamos miesta, pakeites keleta autobusu (transporto priemones patogios, keliai tvarkingi), atsiduriau nedideliame mieste Herrera provincijoje - Chitre. Vis dar neatsistebiu salies vakarietiskumu.

Jaunimas, apsiredes tupu hip hopo ghetto styliumi, miestelio pakrasciuose issirikiave japonisku automobiliu salonai, domino ir macdonalds. I vieninteli Chitre esanti hosteli prisibelsti nepavyko, todel teko apsistoti viesbutyje.

Turistu nesimate, siaip nera ka veikti, zmones - super draugiski, siltomis sypsenomis. Kai nutariau apsilankyti salia esanti kaimuka Parita ir sedejau issiziojes mikruskeje, nezinodamas kur islipti, is pradziu vairuotojas, o po to ir visas keleiviu ekipazas isklausinejo ka noriu pamatyti ir issodino prie namo, kur gaminamos velnio kaukes.

Chitre apylinkes garseja triuksmingais festivaliais, ypac karnavalu. Galvojau isigyti kauke, bet jos velniskai dideles ir netilptu i kuprine, vaikscioti uzsimaukslinus ant galvos butu smagu, bet pasienio pareigunai, manau, neivertintu mano smaikstumo.

Chitre praleidau nakti, viesbutis brangokas, mieste vien parduotuves, tad kita ryta isskubejau ieskoti geros kavos puodelio.

Leaving rainy Panama city, taking few buses (the roads and buses are comfortable) I reached small town in Herrera province called Chitre. Still can`t believe how westernized Panama is - youth wearing stupid hip hop ghetto style clothes, new japanese cars garages in suburbs of town, domino and mcdonalds.

The one and only hostel in Chitre was closed and I had to go to hotel. No tourists around, nothing much to do, people are very nice with warm smiles. I went to village called Parita next to Chitre where devil masks for carnival are made.

The masks look deadly but I wouldn`t be able to fit it in backpack and wear it on the head while travelling would be fun but one problem - crossing the borders. I spent a night in Chitre and next morning left to look for the best cup of coffee in Panama.

Keliones metu supratau, kad man labai patinka kalnai. Boquete krito i aki is pirmo zvilgsnio - i sleni leidziantis geltonu, mokykliniu amerikietisku autobusu, kalnai pasitiko vaivorykstes sypsena, sodria zaluma bei gaiviu aromatu.

Pancho, prie centrines aikstes isikurusio hostelio seimininkas, pagavo einant gatve ir pasisiule apsistoti pas ji.

Nereali vieta - sienos apklijuotos ivairiausiais plakatais, palinkejimais, iskarpomis is zurnalu, kieme auga apelsinmedis, tvora aplipe plastmasiniai ir moliniai herojai, kampe budriu zvilgsniu aplinka stebi Jezus.

Pancho - funky personazas, kalbantis simto zodziu per sekunde greiciu ir nuolat besisypsantis. Paklausus kur geriausia prasivaikscioti kalnais, Pancho, giliai ikvepes, pradeda: ciasiaureciapietuspaejusdukilometrusgerakavinevisadalaikykiskaires. Po poros minuciu nebeklausai ka jis tauskai, tiesiog zvengi linguodamas galva, o Pancho, beje, vis dar neikvepes, beria toliau, issisiepes iki ausu. hehe.

Boquete - kavos ir apelsinu sostine. Apelsinmedziai auga pakelese, kava plantacijose, karts nuo karto augalai i dangu stiebiasi viens salia kito.





Vaisiai - saldus, kava - gardi, klimatas - idealus, kainos nesikandzioja, tad daznai sutiktas praeivis vietoj iprasto `buena`taria `hello`. Nemazai pensininku amerikieciu, isigyje namus pakalneje, isikure miestuke, parduotuveje platus pasirinkimas amerikietisko alaus ir ivairiu maistu. Beje, paragavau Panamoje pagaminto guinnesso, fuu, sudukas skarbonkeje, primena gira su menku alaus prieskoniu.





Panamoje dauguma gyventoju metisai (kaip bebutu keista toks nearistokratiskas derinys stebuklingu budu sukure nemazai simpatisku dailiosios lyties atstoviu), Boquete knibzda Guaymi indenais, moterys ir mergaites pasipuosusios tradicinemis suknelemis, vyrukai ugninio vandens kvapu.

Maistas, deja, nekelia susizavejimo. Aisku, rasi prabangu juros gerybiu ar prancuziska restorana, taciau tradicinis maistas (sutikti keliautojai nuliudino, kad visoje Centrineje Amerikoje tas pats) - pupeles ir ryziai. Valgau vietiniu bufetuose, sociai ir pigiai, vaisiai - tai ka rasi namuose prekybos centruose.




Siandien su kiviu pora is hostelio prasiejom vienu is kalnu keliu, kuris vingiavo kalnais, atograzu misku, laukais bei purvais. Nusigauti greiciau pirmyn ir atgal teko tranzuoti, pavyko be problemu. Boquete - stipri vieta ir virtualioje uzrasu knyguteje dedu riebu pliusa kaip idealiai vietai gyventi isejus i pensija. Gerti kava ryte, sultis pietums ir vakarienei, vaikscioti kalnais, o atsibodus - uz poros valandu masina laukia balto smelio papludimiai prie Ramiojo vandenyno. Panama yra labai grazi:)



I like the mountains mucho and Boquete - the capital of coffee and oranges, small mountain town is a great place. The climate is ideal, prices not too high, the Pacific ocean two hours away by car so many retired americans chose to live here. In the shop you can buy different american beer or food, on the street instead of usual `buena` some people would say `hello`. The hostel I`m staying in is next to the main square, funky place - walls are covered with newspapers, photos, maps, in the back yars the orange tree is growing, in the corner Jesus looking after guests.

The owner of hostel - cool guy Pancho, who speaks so fast you afraid he forgets to breathe, knows the area very well and always ready to help. Panama`s population is mainly mestizo (not so glamorous mix but there are many cute girls), here in Boquete you`ll see many Guaymi indians. The orange trees are everywhere, the coffee growing in farms, some place they just grow next to each other.





Coffee is the best in Panama, oranges so sweet but the food in Panama in general is not good. Tradicional meal (I was told it`s like that everywhere in Central America dam it!) is beans and rice. To eat I go to local buffet, food there is cheap. Of course there are expensive seafood and french restaurants. Tried guinness made in Panama, it`s very bad, don`t ever buy it.

Today I and couple of kiwis from hostel went hiking in mountains. To get there we had to catch a ride to start of the trek and back, it was easy, people are really nice. The path led through fields, rain forest, rivers and mud and mud.



My imaginery ipod in the mountains would like to play trip and hop.

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