Colombians like to celebrate Helloween and I came back to Cartagena for a weekend to go out. Crazy time, party in tiny bar where local manga fans met. Strange costumes, colombian rock music and rivers of beer. I felt like shit afterwards and stayed in Cartagena for few days reading books and thinking what to do next. The guys I met in hostel before Dom and Belinda (driving all the way from Canada to Chile in funky retro Wolksvagen van) offered to join them on the trip to Medellin. It was little bit out of the way to Panama but I decided to do it.
Keliones metu isitaisiau ant sofkutes, patogiausias budas keliauti - nusnaudus posma, spoksai jaukiai isitaises i prabegancius kaimus, laukus, palmiu silus. Pakeleje sutikti vietiniai sypsojosi pilna burna, mojavo ir sauke. Pora kartu sustabde budrus armijos pareigunai, vieni pasiule ginkluota palyda, kiti issizioje varte lietuviska pasa.
Pirma diena pasiekem Tolu, nedideli miesteli prie juros. Nusukus ne i ta kelia, kelione uztruko ir tiksla pasiekem jau i vakara. Kurorte ilsisi vietiniai, turistai is uzjuriu neuzsuka, viesbuciai - brangoki, priemiesciai - nuskure, bakuzes surestos is nieko, pakeleje lauza deginantys pypliai. Sutemo, sukom i siaura, duobeta keliuka salia juros, kol pagaliau pasitaike cabana (vasarnamis) pakranteje. Kaina kandziojosi, bet salia gyvenanti varginga seima, isgriovusi tvora, pasiule apsinakvoti ju kieme.
Burys vaiku, sunu, menka trobele ir kelios pasiures. Nerealiai draugiski zmones nesutiko paiimti pinigu. Miegoti isitaisiau hamake pasiureje, salia ose jura, atnesdama salstelejusi srutu kvapa (labai siukslina).
Nakti koncerta pradejo sunys, paryciais estafete pereme gaidziai plus be sustojimo atakuojantys uodu buriai. Po bemieges nakties ryte senukas neuzsivede, pliaupe lietus, permirkes smelis neleido uzstumti masinos. Dom stebuklingu budu sutvarke problema ir, atsisveikine su seimininku, nubirbejom toliau. Antra diena dauguma laiko snaudziau ant megstamos sofutes, judejom link kalnu, zali, apsiruke sleniai pasiule vesesni ora.
Keliu leke sunkvezimiu karavanai, viename is furistu viesbuciu ir apsistojom. Jokiu uodu, sunu ar gaidziu, maloni vesuma ir saldus miegas. Paskutine keliones diena kelias vinguriavo tarp kalnu aukstyn zemyn, pakeles pievose zole rupsnojo karves alpinistes, o uzeigose kava saldinom svieziu pienu. Praleke lietinga pieno ir surio karalyste pries pietus pasiekem triuksminga Medelina.
During the trip I comfortably sat on the sofa and it is the best way to travel - you can have a nap (I had many:) or enjoy the wiev through the window in comfort. On the first day we reached Tolu - small seaside town. It´s not far away from Cartagena but roads are complicated and it took a day to get there. People seeing yellow van smiled, waved and shouted a lot.
Tolu is the place where colombians go for a break, no western tourists around and the hotels were not cheap. It was getting dark and we tried the road going next to the sea looking for a camping place. We found expensive cabana (summer house) but poor family living next to it offered to stay in their yard (smashing the fence to drive in the van). Super friendly people didn´t want any money for that. Loads of kids, dogs, tiny house. I slept in a hammock but the load barking at night and Colombian idol competition between roosters in early morning (not forgetting little suckers mosquitoes and smelly dirty sea) didn´t leave a chance to get some sleep. In a morning a van didn´t start but Dom did a magic trick and yellow Wolskvagen came to life.
On the second day most of the time I slept on my favourite sofa, we reached the mountains, the green and fogy valleys offered a pleasant cool. The road was crowded with trucks and we stopped in one of the hotel for the truckers. No dogs, roosters or little mosquito scumbags and sweet sleep.
On the last day the road led through the mountains, gangs of cows on the green grass fields and fresh milk with the coffee in roadside cafes. Flying through rainy milk and cheese country in the afternoon we reached noisy Medellin.
Medelinas devyniasdesimtaisiais garsejo kaip pavojinga narkobiznio sostine su Pablo Escobar priesakyje. Dabar tai tiesiog milijoninis, pergrustas miestas, kur turistai daznai neuzsuka. Keletas parku (viename is ju pririkiuota zymiojo Fernando Botero storuliu skulpturu), baznyciu ir nesibaigiantis turgus centre.
Cia pardavejai pirkejus pasitinka prie duru, prasisuke pasiulymus ir nuolaidas rekia i mikrafona, kiti tai sekmingai ir labai garsiai daro be technikos pagalbos. Garsu ir balsu kakafonija bei padirbtu versaciu ir armaniu naujosios, blizgancios kolekcijos. Zmones - super draugiski, apsistojus neprabangiame rajone, kur turistu nematyti, sulauki daugybe zvilgsniu. Gardi, pigi kava, naujas megstamas vaisius - granadilla, kurio suvalgau maisus.
Vietiniai - latina, tamsiaakes mergaites stipriai parausvintais skruostais ir aptemptais drabuzius. Neuzsukom i turtinguju rajonas, bet ir prasiejus kaiminysteje supranti, kad per kaledas ir gimtadienius prie silikono kiosko nusidriekia kilometrines eiles.
Siandien Medeline lyja, Dom ir Belinda lieka mieste, o as kraunuosi smutkes ir po truputi judu link Panamos.
Medellin in 90-ties was infamous as being drug trafficking capital of the world with Pablo Escobar in front lines. Now it is just big, noisy and busy city with few nice parks (one is the home for famous Fernando Botero´s fatties), churches and the city centre basically is one huge mix of market and shopping centres.
Shop assistants wait for the clients at the front and everybody shouting their offers or discounts. Coffee is really good and cheap, new favourite fruit - granadilla is consumed in large quantities.
People more latina type, dark eyed girls with heavy make up and tiny dresses. Not many tourists around, specially in the place we are staying so people are very friendly. It´s raining in Medellin today and I´m packing my backpacks. Dom and Belinda are staying in city, I finally will try to get to Panama.
Geltoname senuke muzika, deja, neskambejo. Jei tureciau galimybe, garsiakalbiai keliones metu plysautu taip:
en la mañana
en la tarde
en la noche
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