Pirmas dvi dienas ant keturiu, trecia ant dvieju, beklausant geros muzikos.
Kelione is Varanasio i Nepala turetu buti labai paprasta - autobusu i Sanauli pasienyje, perejus siena autobusu i Pokhara. Turetu buti. As sugebejau pakeisti 3 (vienas sugedo pakeliui) vien pasiekti siena. Vaziuoti vietiniais, neturistiniais yra pigiau bei smagiau.
Autobusai nuskure, prikimsti, kai kurie antikiniai. Keleiviai sedi po tris ant dvieju sedyniu, penkiese suseda ant trisuolio. Vairuotojai stoja tik didesnese stotyse ir islipant keleiviui, ilipant reikia isokti i letai vaziuojanti monstra. 10 valandu kelione neuztruko, kaimai begantys pro langa arba angliskai snekantys vietiniai ukininkai.
Pasiekus siena, migracijos pareigunai pranese dvi naujienas-pabrangusi viza bei dvi savaites trunkantis streikas pasienio ruoze ir del to nevaziuojantys autobusui nei i Pokhara, nei i Kathmandu. Tenka nakvoti prastam hostelyje ir ryte ieskoti riksos, kuris numintu 26 km iki artimiausio miesto ne streiko zonoje. Hostelyje sutikau bendros nelaimes istikta keliautoja Arifa, anksti ryte pasigaunam riksa ir pirmyn i Nepala. Streikas neispudingas, kelia uztveria sudegintas sunkvezimis uz keliu kilometru, toleliau nesudeges sunkvezimis bei keliasdesimt vyruku, kurie kazka lepteleje ir pamojave lazdomis, nurimo.
Autobusai Nepale tvarkingesni, sedima po du, nors daugiau zmoniu sedi ant stogo nei Indijoje. Siauras kalnu serpantinas, vedantis i Pokhara, plus vairavimas fast and furious Nepalese style netrukde pamigt. Autobuse sutiktas Gregorijus prisidejo prie keliones plano. Mieste prie Phewa ezero turistams skirtas rajonas knibzda sveciu namais, restoranais, turizmo agenturomis.
Nakvyne-labai pigi (erdvus kambarys su svariu dusu bei !svaria! patalyne tekainuoja 3 eurus), bet visa kita brangoka, ypac alkoholis - du eurus kainuoja bet koks normalesnis alus, valgant tenka paejeti toliau i salutines gatveles. Pokharoje dievina roka, barai pilni cover grupiu, bruzinanciu Bon Jovi, Nirvana, Guns n Roses, Pink Floyd ir t.t. dainas bei keli *klubai*, grojantys pigu electrohouse.
Sveciu namu semininkas labai teisingas bicas. Pirma vakara su juo nuejome i restorana toliau nuo triuksmo, kur miesto gyventojai valgo ir geria nepalietiska viski is mazu buteliuku. Nepalietis keike maoistu valdzia, kuri niekam neleidzia dirbti veliau nei vidurnaktis, pakele mokesciu iki dangaus bei persekioja opozicija. Gatvese pilna policininku ir patikrinimo postu, o vietine armija, pasirodo, niekam nepavaldus vienetas ir ruosiasi karui, jei artejancius rinkimus vel laimes maoistai.
Treciai dienai pasirinkus du ratus (dvirati) apvaziavom apylinkes - nedidelius kaimelius akmenuotais, kalvotais keliais.
Nepalieciai kaip ir indai megsta sveikintis ir klausti is kur tu, ypac vaikai.
Pirma vieta tenka tyliam hello, pasigirdusiam nuo lubu, pravaziuojant pakeles nama. Palubese pakabintam krepsyje sedejo issisiepes miniatiurinis pilietis, kad niekur nebegiotu ir netrukdytu prieangyje siuvanciai mociutei. Nepale sezonas tik prasideda, neimanoma rasti trekingo grupes, tad po poros dienu eisiu i tura vienas. Trekingo industrija isvystyta pilnu pajegumu, kalnuose pilna info centru bei sveciu namu. Ryt mano keliones ant ratu bendrakeleiviai: kanadietis Arif, metes darba banke ir Azijoje keliaujantis nuo sausio bei maskvietis Gregoryi, pagyvenes 3 menesius Goa, isvaziuoja i Kathmandu, o as ruosiuosi zygiui link Himalaju!
Namaste! They use the same hello but some things here in Nepal are different. It took two days to reach destination city Pokhara near the mountains. Taking local bus in India is some experience-dirty, overcrowded, but full of smiling and friendly people.
10 hours and 3 different buses took me to India/Nepal border. It was late in evening and because of the strike in the border area no bus would go to Pokhara or anywhere else. Next morning me and Arif, the guy from Canada I met in hostel had to take a bicycle riksha and reach the closest city to take a bus from, just 26 km away:). The strike was kind of allright, burnt truck in the middle of the road, later next one surounded by strikers with big sticks. On a bus George, the guy from Moscow, joined us.
Nepalese buses are way better, even with few people on the roof. Pokhara (except accomodation) is more expensive comparing to India, specially living near the lake in tourist area. Its worth it, I missed the peace and no crazy car horns round here. Yesterday first time in 10 years I rided a bicycle for whole 7! hours, just visitting small villages suroundindg the lake.
Everything closes at midnight in here. The maoists goverment (same like Irish:) wants to close everything early, rised the taxes on drinks (2 euros for a beer in a bar), curfew and problems for Nepalese people after 11 pm. Im going to stay here few days more and after will head to mountains to do some trekking and take a look at highest mountains in the world.
Dar viena-po 10 dienu vien tik vegetarisko maitinimosi Indijoje, Nepale valgau mesa - vistiena bei mufloniena (kalnu aviniena). Nerealus mumo - kaip ir koldunai, sviezia is ezero pagauta zuvis bei burnoje tirpstantys arbuzai.
They love rock music in Nepal - all the cover bands in the bars playing Guns n Roses, Bon Jovi, Nirvana, etc songs. You can go to few crapy nightclubs to listen to cheap elctrohouse.
First night in the bar the cover band finished their set with reall bomb.
Bare grojusio bando, prilakes jaunas backpakeriu burys pora kartu isprase sugrot dar viena smota. Vietiniai rokeriai pabaigai trinktelejo bomba (garso!!).
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