Apsistojome vidurines klases rajone Botafogo, jaukiame hostelyje, kurio dauguma lankytoju sudare brazilai. As, nesulaukes Robkes, pirma diena praslankiojau kaiminysteje, prasieidamas vietiniu papludimiu. Hostelyje kiekviena vakara ´mama Ciolia´ ruosdavo gardzia vakariene, pietums ant kampo geltuojancios uzkandines padavejas patardavo koki patiekala pasirinkti. Brazilija - brangiausia salis Pietu Amerikoje, ypac didieji miestai, todel prabangiai ilsetis kainuoja nemazai rubliu. Botafogo - geras rajonas su medumi kvepianciomis gatvemis, minimaliu kiekiu turistu, todel gali pamatyti kaip verda kasdieninis gyvenimas Rio.
Vakare atvykus Robkei, sovem aplankyti samba klubo, ant kurio scenos grojo krepsinio komandos dydzio grupe, o sokejai-lankytojai kraipe klubus. Grizus i hosteli, su brazilu kompanija iki paryciu zaidem zaidima kortomis, kurio esme isgerti kuo dazniau. Robke issitrauke buteli degtines, snapse visi ragavo nesusiraukdami.
Rio de Janeiro is the city to enjoy best when the sun is shining. Unfortunately all the time I spent there the sun showed up only few times and it rained a lot. My friend Robert aka Robbie from Dublin came to visit Brazil and travel together for couple of weeks.
He managed to miss original flight in Madrid and arrived next day. The hostel we stayed in was in middle class Botafogo neighborhood.
First day I walked around the hood, nice place, not many tourists around so you can see daily life of Rio. Brazil is the most expensive country in South America, specially big cities. The breakfast and dinner was served in hostel was tasty and simple, for lunch the waiter of the local bar on the corner would recommend good and cheap food. The hostel was full of brazilians and couple of days we were only foreigners there. When Robbie arrived we went to samba club with live band on the stage and hip shaking on the floor. Back to hostel, drinking game with brazilians, bottle of vodka Robbie brought from Ireland, early morning in Rio.
Sau Paulo brazilai gasdino pavojais Rio de Janeiro, pasak ju, centras pilnas bomzu, favelu gyventoju, ieskanciu lengvo grobio. Nerade pirkti automatu, ejom apziureti centro ginkluoti tik fotoaparatu. San Paulo gyventojai perdejo arba mums tiesiog ´nepasiseke´ - judrus, purvinokas centras neatrode pavojingas kaip ir superdidelis turgus, siulantis ivairiausiu suduku, galinga katedra ar senus laikus menanti architektura, isikibusi i paranke pilkiems daugiaauksciams.
Apsiniaukes dangus pradejo dalinti lietaus lasus, mes bandeme vaziuoti i Santa Teresa rajona, taciau autobuso vairuotojas islaipino prie Corcovado kalvos. Virsuneje dunkso zymioji Kristaus statula. Kylant i kalva tramvajumi, matomumas mazejo geometrine progresija, atsidurus virsuneje migloje buvo sunku iziureti net ir 40 metu aukscio Kristaus figura. Krapnojantis lietus neleido likti ilgiau, o liutis vakare priverte sedeti hostelyje beziurint filmus apie Brazilija.
Brazilian guys in Sao Paulo kept telling me that Rio is dangerous place full of homeless and favelas´ finest looking to mug a tourist. I wouldn´t agree, the downtown of Rio was busy, little bit dirty but safe. Old buildings next to high rise apartment blocks, enormous cathedral, huge market where you can buy some shit.
The rain was getting stronger, we wanting to go to Santa Teresa neighborhood by accident ended up next to Corcovado hill, home to famous statue of Christ. Going up to the hill by tram the visibility was getting worse every second. On the top the only thing you could see was the statue surrounded by thick fog. Awfull forced us to go back very soon and stay in hostel watching brazilian movies.
Kita diena Santa Teresa pasiekem antikvariniu tramvajumi, is ten atgal i centra kulniavome pesciomis. Tipo menininku rajonas su simpatiskais, ryskiomis spalvomis ir detalemis papuostais namukais, vergu prakaitu pastatytomis senomis pilaitemis ir uz nugaros marguojanciomis favelomis. Nakti i si rajona taksi net nevaziuoja, bet ir diena nesiryzom lysti giliau i salutines gatveles.
Bevalgant pietus pasirode tingine saule, pazadejusi giedresni dangu. Nulekus metro iki Pão de Açúcar kalvos, prisikabino dusmanas Antonio, isiules dar karta aplankyti Kristaus statula. Si karta po kojomis atsivere visas Rio vaizdas - smeleti papludimiai, zalieji rajonai.
Antonio garsiai, labai garsiai dalinosi gimtosios provincijos muzika, svilpavo kiekvienai pakeliui sutiktai merginai ir patare be baimes aplankyti salia musu esancia favela (po to kiti brazilai primygtinai prase to nedaryti). Grizus i Pão de Açúcar kilom budele aukstyn, Rio pasipuose ziburiais, Robkes gimtadienio proga ragavom caipirinhas. Telefoninio pokalbio metu jubilijatas tiksliai apibudino veiksma - ´lakam samagona ir megaujames Kristumi´.
Vakare susitikus su kaimyne is Dublino Egele, kuri Brazilijoje lanko draugus, pratesem caipirinha ragavima. Po simto metu taip ilgai snekejau lietuviskai (Saltoje sutikau viena mergina ir pora vaikinuku Iguazu, su kuriais persimetem keliais zodziais).
Santa Teresa neighborhood is kind of arty one, colourful houses, colonial mansions and favelas on the hills around. At night taxi driver wouldn´t go there and at day we didn´t go deep to side streets.
The sun showed up , we took a metro to Sugar Loaf hill, where taxi driver Antonio convinced us to visit Christ statue again. This time the view was great - sunny beaches and green neighborhoods.
Back to Sugar Loaf , tram to the top, darkness and zillions of light popping in the city below. Robbie celebrated his birthday and we had few caipirinhas while enjoying the view.
Caipirinha was the drink of the night when we met my neighbor from Dublin Egle visiting her friends in Brazil. I haven´t spoke lithuanian for a long time.
Nors saule ir nepasirode paskutine diena, popiete praleidom papludimiuose, nes juos aplankyti Rio privaloma. Zmoniu pakranteje, krapnojant lietui, ilsejosi mazai, jokiu atviru bikini ir kitu grozybiu ne zenklo. Taciau pardaveju ir kitu ikyriu tipu netruko. Prazingsniave Copacabana, uzsukant i forta patikrinti Brazilijos kariniu pajegu pasiruosima, uzsukom i prabangu Ipanema papludimi.
Ponai ir ponios gere sampana, o gelbetojai nuobodziaudami krapste ausis. Svieciant saulei, Rio papludimiai nusluostytu nosi bet kuriam kitam miestui. Tuo galesiu isitikinti grizes karnavalo metu.
Sun didn´t show the last day but anyways we went to check the beach cause you can´t miss it. Light rain and no bikinis around just annoying sellers everywhere. Longest beach Copacabana guarded by fort and poshy Ipanema beach. I guess when it´s raining the story is like that but if you can buy some sun credits in advance Rio would be the best city for beach life.
Sauletas Rio bombarduotu bossa nova medaus bombomis.
No comments:
Post a Comment