As i didziausiu pasaulio miestu penketuko nari atvykau aplankyti pazistamu is sauletosios Italijos - Monicos ir Luca. Monica viena semestra architekturos magistro studiju atidirbineja Brazilijoje, Luca, pafotkines menesi mirstanciame Detroite, ruosia nuotraukas parodai, galbut knygai. Apsistojau pas ju pazistamus - jaunus brazilus, studijuojancius zurnalistika, prabangiame bute (sveicorius prie duru, bobute, tvarkanti namus kiekviena diena), kuris nuolatos buvo pergrustas busimais ziniasklaidos atstovais, snekanciais puikia anglu kalba. Sao Paulo - milziniskas, super didziulis, neimanomai platus. Miesta nutariau apziureti keliaudamas pesciomis, zemelapyje atstumai pasirode nedideli. I parka, kuris nuo gyvenamosios vietos zaliavo vos keletos centimetru atstumu, kulniavau daugiau kaip dvi valandas, vis klausdamas praeiviu, negaledamas patiketi gatviu ilgumu. Ibirapuera parkas - erdvus, tvarkingas, papuostas muziejais, begikais, ziopliais kaip as ir benamiais.
Ilgas zygis i centra uzsukant i kulturos centra, pralenkiant japonu rajona, dziaugiantis milijonais grafiti ant kiekvienos tvoros ar laisvos sienos. Centras - totalus velnynas, i dangu saunantys, masyvus pastatai, primenantys JAV, miegantys, sedintys bomzai, kostiumuoti dedes, minios zmoniu, baznycia supancios prostitutes, favelu jaunimas, akimis beieskantys eilines aukos, veidai, kurie net ir nueje nusipirkti pieno, pakliutu i penkto puslapio metu desimtuka. Pardavejai, siulantys muzika ir porno, raganu eile ant tilto, pasiruosusiu isburti ateiti ar uzkeikti priesa, nuo kreko isejusiu zombiu gvardijos, Jacksono antrininku konkursas, prie viso to pridek vejo blaskomas siuksliu kruvas ir pro smogo antklode bandancius prasimusti kaitrios saules spindulius. Kaip suprantate Sao Paulo man patiko tuoj pat.
Cities come in different sizes - small ones where everybody knows each other, big ones where nobody wants to know no one. Sao Paulo with population of 17 millions is the huge one. I came here to visit Monica and Luca, italian guys I hosted in Dublin once. Monica came to Sao Paulo for six months to do architecture internship and Luca after spending a month in ruined down Detroit taking pictures is getting ready the photos for exhibition, probably a book too. I stayed in their friends', brazilian guys studying journalism, place - nice apartment in poshy neighborhood full of people all the time and they all spoke very good english. Sao Paulo is just massive, I decided to see the centre by walking, the distance on the map looked alright.
The walk to Ibirapuera park took me more than two hours (2 centimetres on map). I kept asking people for directions cause I just couldn't believe how far it is. The park is like any park anywhere - green, calm island in crazy city, people doing exercises, getting some sleep.
Long walk to downtown passing centre of culture, japanese neighborhood, admiring graffiti on every wall or fence. Downtown is mad place - high rise buildings like in USA, rich and poor mixing, homeless people everywhere, crackheads shouting out of their heads. The witches on the bridge offering to tell the future, prostitutes surrounding the church, young guys from favelas looking to rob somebody and on top of it - flying garbage around and the sun trying to get through clouds of smog. I just loved the place.
Monica patare nesisvaisyti fotoaparatu (todel nevisada galejau nufotografuoti idomesnius tipazus ar vietas), kiseneje nesiotis nedaug pinigu. Stengiausi nevaikscioti issiziojes su zemelapiu rankose, o policininkai su nepersaunamomis liemenemis ir visada atsegtais pistoletu deklais bei apsauginiai prie kiekvieno pastato patvirtino perspejima. Sao Paulo - verslo ir darbo miestas, Avenida Paulista, prie kurios apsistojau,pagrindinis Pietu Amerikos finansinis centras, todel ir nakti ten buvo pakankamai saugu (paciame centre nakti karaliauja visa diena miegoje bomzai).
Gatvese sutiksi nemazai japonu, tai jau trecioji karta, todel visi sneka portugaliskai ir elgiasi kaip brazilai. Beveik puse miesto gyventoju - italu kilmes, ju cia keletas milijonu. Dauguma europieciu galvoja,kad Brazilija perpildyta grazuolemis, bet kaip ir bet kuriame dideliame mieste gatves slifuoja ivairus zmones. Aisku, apsirengimo stilius 'parodyk ka turi' skiriasi nuo vakarietisko.
Brazilai - draugiskiausi sutikti zmones, jiems idomu is kur tu, ka veiki. Busimi zurnalistai issitempe isgerti alaus i alternatyvu rajona, kuriame karaliauja verksniai emo, pasipuose vienodomis sukuosenomis, auskarais, prostitutemes, gejai, transvestitai, rokeriai. Iki paryciu visi iki vieno pavyzdingai snekejo angliskai, nors as buvau vienintelis uzsienietis.
Monica straight away told me not to flash my camera, carry small amount of money and just be careful. Policemen wearing bulletproof vests ready to shoot and security guys next to every building seconded that. Sao Paulo is work and business city and Avenida Paulista I was staying next to is the main financial centre in South America so at night it was safe place (downtown at night is ruled by homeless people). Brazil is famous for beautiful girls but like in any big city you'll see every kind of people, of course the dress style 'show what you have' is different from western one.
There are many japanese on the streets, it's second or third generation so they talk portuguese and act brazilian. Most of population are italian descent, millions of them live in the city. Brazilians are the friendliest people I met, they are really interested where are you from and all that. I went out with brazilian guys and till early morning they spoke only english, even I was only foreigner there.
Sao Paulo - alternatyvios kulturos namai, o CSS - pagrindinis muzikos veliavanesys vakaru pasaulyje.
No comments:
Post a Comment