Saules beieskant / Relentless pursuit of sun

´Gimtajame mieste mane vadina keistuoliu, cia visi tokie, todel as kaip ir normalus´- maniakiska sypsena teigini patvirtina Paolo, Angoloje uzauges portugalas, keliaujantis jau desimt metu, paskutinius kelis sezonus bandantis prasisukti Jericoacoara. Miestelis siaures rytuose - nedidukas, vos keli tukstanciai gyventoju ir kruva turistu.


Atkeliauti is Rio teko pakeisti du lektuvus, vaziuoti sesias valandas autobusu, o paskutine atkarpa kratytis dideliame keturatyje per kopas ar pajuriu jau nakti (kelyje vis isdygdavo karviu ar asiliuku burys).

Jericoacoara elektra pasieke vos pries kelis metus, taciau laidai buvo istiesti po zeme.

Miestelyje tvarka saugo trys policininkai, kuriems dirbti virsvalandziu netenka. Super saugu, nes bendruomene vietini ar atvykeli vagiuka/chuligana greitai issiaiskina, draugiskai pamusa ir deportuoja is kurorto. Gyvenom centrinej gatvej, salia aiksteje berniukas kioske pardavinejo gardziuosius x-tudo burgerius bei alu, todel sia vieta pavadine savo localu lankem kiekviena vakara.

Kaip ir visur daug restoranu, suvenyru parduotuviu, turizmo agenturu, bet viskas pateikta pakankamai stilingai ir idomiai.


Kaip tik dabar prasideda kite surfing sezonas ir Jericoacoara dviems menesiems tampa geriausia pasaulyje vieta uzssimti siuo sportu. Susirenka kitesurfing elitas, vaikinukai, kuriems dideles kompanijos moka uz vejo vaikymasi. Papludimiai platus, vejas negailestingas, kepina saulute, aplink kopos. Diena pamatysi simpatiskas sportininku merginas, o vakare gatves slifuoja vietines moteriskos lyties atstoves, juodaodziu ir indenu misinys, placiais klubais (dideliu seimu rezultatas), placiais peciais (darbo plantacijose genai) ir riebalais papildomais (bulkuciu laimejimas).

Mano ir Robkes megstamiausia Jericoacoara bendruomene - rastamanai, pardavinejantys visokius sudukus ir konkuruojantys sukuosenu kietumu. Numeris vienas - mazasis rastamanas, nuolat besisypsantis bei kartajontis ya man, animacinio peliuko veidu ir didziule rastos kepure ant miniatiurines galvos.


´In my town they call me crazy, here everybody is like that so I´m normal´ - the portugese guy Paolo who travelling for 10 years now and last few staying in Jericoacoara followed the sentence with freaky smile. The seaside village in northeast of Brazil is quite small, the electricity reached Jericoacoara only few years back. In order to get there we had to change two planes, take a bus and for last two hours go by 4x4 huge jeep through the dunes.

The hostel was on the main street, few metres from small kiosk where you could get tasty x-tudo burgers and beer, we called it our local and visited it every night. Jericoacoara has three policemen but they don´t do much, if somebody causing any trouble locals will beat them up and kick out from the village for long time. It´s very safe at any time.


The kite surfing season started and Jericoacoara for two months will be the best place in the world to catch the wind. All professionals kite surfers who get paid for doing it are now there. Locals are quite ugly I would say, mix between indian and black, extra fat all around in most cases. The good thing was the sun all the time and strong wind. The best community is the rasta one, they sell handcrafts and all that. Favourite one - little rastaman, really funny guy smiling all the time with huge rasta hat on the head.


Pirma diena pagaude saule valanda ir neblogai nudege (ekvatorius prie pat ir eidamas mini ant seselio galvos), kitas dvi dienas saules pamatyti nepavyko, nes pjovem. Atsikelus i vakara i local, alaus, po dvylikos i papludimi, prikimsta kiosku pardavinejanciu caipirinha, ir vieninteliu klubu, siulanciu sokine sudmuzike. Paryciais visas veiksmas keliasi i forró kluba (siaures rytu nacionaline muzika), taip naktine Jericoacoara banda ir keliauja iki saules pasitikimo.
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Paskutine diena siaip ne taip sugebejom nuvaziuoti i eskursija apziureti smelynuose issidrebusiu gelo vandens ezeru.






We got some tan on the first day, sun is so strong, it took just an hour to get red. Next two days was party time, beer in local till midnight, after to the beach where caipirinha is the drink and the shit dance music is the choise in only one club. Finally in early hours forró club (local folk music) and the sunrise.

Somehow the last we managed to go to lagoons in the dunes.





Sekmadieni istustejusioj centrineje aiksteje del 100 reais prizo varzesi vietiniai daininkai. Rengini stebejo visas kaimas - trys policininkai, rastamanu burys (dreduotieji bande jegas dainu konkurse, suvilioti aukso puodo), pro sali praslinkdavo Paolo, salia daininku ant scenos soko isprotejusi mergina, panasi i Gavrosa (nuolat sokusi ant scenos forró klube). Pagrindine gatve nuskubejo karve, zalmarges paryciais atvaro buriais esti is siuksliadeziu, ta pati daro ir asiliukai, bet dabar ne sezonas. Sedint locale, nugara gaivino vejas, pedos varte smeli, berniukas atnese dar pora alaus, gyvenimas grazus ar ne? (cia Robke taip nuostabiai saulelydi papleskino).

I didn´t like that local music much but this tune they kept playing in seafood restaurant is amazing. Btw sorry for my english cause I am writing it in a hurry.