Bolivia is a champion of South America when it comes to road blockades but Argentina is not far behind. Twenty kilometres to Cafayate there was a bunch of fat as prize pigs dickheads who didn´t let the bus through. So we had to wait in a bus for an hour, then walk for a little bit and get the taxi to Cafayate. There were loads of police around but they did nothing. I don´t really care anymore what are the reasons for blockade but they better eat less and money will not be a problem. If I had spanish I would said that and probably would be eaten alive.
Cafayate - vienas is svarbiausiu Argentinos vyno pramones centru, garsejanti baltais vynais torrontes. Miestuka tenka pasiekti issukus is pagrindinio turizmo kelio, todel daug maziau lankytoju nei Saltoje. Be reikalo. Nors ikyriai kaitino saule, siaute dulketas vejas, Cafayate krito i aki is pirmo zvilgsnio. Purvinokas, patriuses miestukas, bet alsuojantis atsipalaidavusiu ritmu, o zmones - draugiskiausi, sutikti Pietu Amerikoje.
Saligatviu apelsinmedziai nokina vaisius, prie baznycios skraidzioja buriai siuksliu, siestos metu, isskyrus centrines aikstes istaigas turistams, niekas nedirba.
Vejas i vakara isibegejo mini tornado ritmu, o kitas rytas pasitiko zvarbiu salciu. Hostelyje patare aplankyti didziausia apylinkes vynine, bet as, nemegdamas disneylandu, nuejau i nediduke Vasija Secreta.
Mini muziejus, gardus vynas isragavimui. Geriausia vyna, beje, gamykla eksportuoja i uzjurius, Argentinoje jo nenusipirksi.
Cafayate - one of the most important wine centres in Argentina famous for white wines torrontes. It´s little bit out of the main tourist way so less people visit the place. I liked Cafayate straight away.
It´s dirty and dusty but very relaxed and friendliest place so far in South America. Oranges on the trees around main plaza, garbage at the church entrance, almost everything closed during siesta. First day was so hot and dusty, second day woke up cloudy and cold. I visited small bodega called Vasija Secreta to taste fruity white wine and check tiny museum.
By the way the best wine they make is exported and you can´t buy it in Argentina.
Salta su Cafayate jungia grazuolis kelias skambiu pavadinimu Quebrada de Cafayate. 2009 rugsejo devinta diena, devinta valando ryte, dvirati paguldes bagazineje, lipau i autobusa, nugabenusi iki Garganta del Diablo, vos ne penkiasdesimt kilometru nuo vyno miestuko. Quebrada de Cafayate pasizymi ne rodenu ar kitu meistru, bet gamtos iskaltomis kalnuose sklupturomis bei statiniais. Garganta del Diablo bei salia esantis El Anfiteatro - didingos erdves kalno viduje, bet, deja, ypac antrasis pilni turistu ir prekeiviu.
Greit prasibeges, sokau ant dviracio. Nors saule kukliai slepesi uz aukstu kalnu, kelias atpirko zvarba. Minti teko nedaug, nes beveik visada dviratis riedejo zemyn. Transporto priemone pasitaike nebloga, stabdziai veike pusetinai.
Pirmasis ir galima sakyti vienintelis keliu trobu kaimukas Santa Barbara kaip ir serijalelele pasitiko saule ir ozkomis bei oziukais. Viena sena barzdote drasiai soko po pravaziuojancio sunkvezimio ratais, vairuotojui sustabdzius, ramiai nuzingsniavo link artimiausio krumo. Gimine, pasilikusi kitoje kelioje puseje, scena stebejo bukais zvilgsniais.
Sustojus prie upes surukyti cigarete, tuoj pat prisistate kalnu erelis, ratus sukes vos keli metrai virs galvos. Netrukus pasirode antras ir trecias, galu gale akrobatinius triukus ora atliko visas sesetukas. Galvojau, bandys suvalgyti peleda, bet po to supratau, kad kaip ir nusitriedes zviblis prie stoties kibinu kiosko, didingi pauksciai laukia kokio kasnio.
Neturejau maisto, todel toliau patraukiau nesumokejes uz sou. ´Gyvunijos pasaulyje´ tema pratese rupuzes skulptura prie kelio, kaktusas kulturistas. Lekiant dvirka zemyn svilpianti veja ausyse karts nuo karto norejosi pakeisti lipniu funk.
Pro sali prajojo du gaucho buriai, isdidziai pozave nuotraukoms.
Pasiekus pusiaukele, kelio pasoneje i dangu kilo El Obelisco, salia uolose susirauke aplinka stebejo vejo nugairinti akmeniniai veidai, stikla seniai prarades langas, prie upes dunksantis lyg neiveikiama pilis Las Castillos. Vejas vis stiprejo, smeliu raizydamas veida, tiek mano, tiek fotiko batareja prase papildymo. Paskutinis keliones etapas susikloste lengvai, minti teko nedaug, pakalne neleido pavargti.
The road from Salta to Cafayate called Quebrada de Cafayate is breath taking. On the 9th of September 2009, 9 o´clock in a morning I took a bus going to Garganta del Diablo, almost 50 km away from wine land. Quebrada de Cafayate is like park of sculptures and constructions made by nature (if you go to church on Sunday I let you name it - made by God). Garganta del Diablo and El Anfiteatro next to it are massive spaces inside of the mountain, unfotunately full of tourists and sellers.
So after short time there I jumped on the bike, the sun was hiding behind the mountains but the road was so easy, going downhill all the time and just silly scenic.
First and only one village by the road called Santa Barbara brought sun and goats running cross the road. Next mountain eagles came, by the end six of them circling above my head.
I was afraid they were going to eat the owl. The toad being made of stone and cactus getting ready for bodybuilding competition were less threatening.
In the middle of the trip El Obelisco by the road and Las Catillos by the river. I was little bit tired and the wind was getting strong lashing sand all over.
Again going downhill was a blessing, it was more like riding slow motorbike.
Uzteks man kaimuku, dulkiu ir folkloro. Noriu i multimilijonini megapoli, pietums valganti neklauzadas vaikus, uzgeriant apleistose gamyklose brandinto smogo taure. Galvojau vaziuoti is Saltos, bet vel kazkas del kazko protestuoja, teks gautis kitu keliu. Jei tureciau muzikini aparata, keliones i Bueanos Aires metu garsai ausiniu laidais teketu taip:
praplesus akis
numigus pietu
placiai uzmerkus akis
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