Argentina laikotarpyje tarp pirmojo ir antrojo pasauliniu karu pagal turtinguma tvirtai stovejo septintoje pasaulio saliu lenteles vietoje. Laikai ir vietos pasikeite, bet skirtumas su kaimynine Bolivija - didziulis. Asfaltuoti keliai, modernus autobusai, du-tris kartus didesnes kainos, europietiski vietiniu veidai, tvarkingi restoranai, kur turistu mazuma. Atsidures Tilcaroj velai vakare, nesekmingai bandziau prisibelsti i keliu hosteliu duris. Galvojau teks gulti po medziu (vakarai silti, zydi medziai, isibegeja pavasaris), bet uzklydau i nakvynes namus, priimancius visa para. Gavau kambari su keturiomis lovomis - man, peledai, mazajai bei didziajai kuprinems. Lankytoju be manes nebuvo(sezonas tik prasideda), todel seimininkas ir vienintelis darbuotojas bimbinejo nieko neveikdami, dusa ijungdavo paprasius, pusryciams is savo saldytuvo trauke uogiene, dalinosi kava. Tarsi sveciuotumes pas tolimus gimines, kuriuos sutikai vos kelis kartus.
Tilcara lanko argentinieciai, aplink vien ispanu kalba, europiecius sutikau tik autobusu stotyje. Pagrindine atrakcija - senasis inku fortas, dalinai atstatytas archeologu. Inkai ilga laika, naudodamiesi patogia geografine padetimi, atmusinejo ispanu atakas. Stati kalva, apsupta pastelinemis spalvomis uzpiltu kalnu, virto sunkiai iveikiamu bastionu ir be papildomu itvirtinimu. Tilcara - keliu tukstanciu gyventoju kurortinis miestelis su nedidukemis suvenyru parduotuvemis, nutriususia centrine aikste, restoranais, turizmo agenturomis. Alus - neblogas, vynas - pigus (vietinio, gomuri svelniai kandziojancio puslitris restorane kainuoja 4 litus), mesos populiarumas isvarytu vegetarus is proto. Kulinarija pirstus apsilaizyti, todel vietiniu figuros daznai primena bulkutes. Kokybiskas maistas, geras vynas, po kurio isragavimo nakvot grizau kaip desimtokas po karnavalo.
Between first and scond world wars Argentina was the 7-th richest country in the world. Time changed but still the difference between Bolivia and Argentina is huge. The road and buses are way better, european local faces, the prices are 2-3 times higher. It was difficult to find a place to stay in Tilcara when I arrived. Hostels doors were closed and for a moment I thought I`ll have to sleep on the street (nights are warm, spring in full swing).
Finally I found a hotel open 24 hours, friendly owner and as season just starting I was the only one guest. Tilcara is a litlle resort town where argentinians come to relax. Main attraction - restored Inca fort. Because of handy location incas managed to fight off spaniards for a long time. Nice place surrounded by mountains. The food here is good quality, beer is not too bad, wine is brilliant (little bit more than a euro for a half a litre of house red in restaurant). It`s suicide to be vegetarian cause meat is the king. On the first night I had big chunk of beef and drank tasty wine, I was almost singing going back to hotel.
Purmamarca
Kaimukas miniatiurinis, jei tualetas butu kitame baznytkaimio kraste ir prispirtu reikalas - kelione skubiu zingsniu, sustojant nusipirkti tualetinio popieriaus, uztruktu penkias minutes.
Turistai uzsuka pasigrozeti Purmamarca garsinanciu Cerro de Siete Colores (septynspalvi kalna), ju laukia burys prekeiviu ir uodegas vardan kasnio vizginantys sunys. Lankytojai dazniausia neuzsibuna ne dienos, as nutariau pasilikti porai naktu. Kalnai, ko gero, graziausi, sutikti kelioneje. Rudos ir zalios spalvos, isblyskinti ar pagardinti klodai tarsi sugule idealios fotografijos progai.
Isvaziavus paskutiniam autobusui, aikste mirsta, taciau salutinese gatvelese veikia keli jaukus restoranai, kur groja gitaristas su bugnininku, gali pavalgyti lamos troskinio ir isgerti koki litra alaus.
Nakvynes namuose susiraukusi darbuotoja pasiule kambari su sesiomis lovomis (pasas ir fotikas plojo rankomis). Ramus, tvarkingas kaimukas, nuovada ir baznycia, savivaldybe ir mini autobusu stotis, zmones sveikinasi gatveje. Vienintelis ikyrus dalykas - siautejantis vejas gatvese, dalinantis dulkiu kamuolius dovanu.
Tiny village close to Tilcara is famous for Cerro de Siete Colores (seven colours mountain). Tourists come here for few hours to walk around and buy some souvenirs on the market. I decided to stay two nights and do nothing.
When last bus leaves plaza is empty but there are few cosy restaurants open where you can listen to live music, try lama stew and drink a litre of decent beer. The mountains are the most beautiful I have seen. Brown and green colours mixed in different shades.
Is Purmamarca vaziavau i Salta, pakeiciant autobusa Jujuy. Provincijos centras, purvas ir netvarka, basi gatves vaikai, chuliganiski veidai prie stoties. Autobusu stotyje kazkuo nepatenkinti argentinieciai uztvere pravaziavima, degindami padangas bei sprogdindami petardas. Policija bande uzgesinti, galu gale tai padare atvaziave saunieji gaisrininkai.
As laukiau autobuso stotyje, kur jis nepasirode del padangu maisto. Pasirodo reikejo laukti salutineje gatveje, kai nuejau ten - maistas baigesi ir teko grizti atgal i stoti. Bardakas haha
From Purmamarca I went to Salta changing the bus in Jujuy. Dirty and noisy town, homeless kids asking for money. There was a protest meeting at the entrance to the bus station, the tyres were burning. Nobody told me the bus was leaving from side street because of fire.
I missed the bus and went outside the bus station to wait for a new one. Of course the protest has finished after half an hour and I had to go back to station. Argentina may be better off than Bolivia but it is still messy South America.
Mesa / Meat
Dar budamas Bolivijoje, svajojau apie sultingus, kruvinus kepsnius, kuriais garseja Argentina. Vidutiniam restorane atnesa puse darzo salotu, trecdali kepyklos ir jautienos smota. Galima pirstus nusikandzioti kaip gardu. Tauta, kuri taip moka kepti mesa, i dangu turi pakliuti be eiles.
I couldn´t wait to get to Argentina because of steaks. In restaurant you get big bowl of salad, fresh garlic bread, different salsas and juicy bloody piece of beef. And man they can cook it, the meat is so tender. I´m hungry again-).
Hostelis Saltoje pasitaike jaukus ir draugiskas. Vakar seimininkas surenge barbecue ir vyno svente. As irgi prisidejau-)
Salta la linda
Miestas labai simpatiskas, sviecia saule, parke tupineja palmes, dangu ramsto rimtos baznycios, i kalna kyla budeles, priristos prie virves. Tingiu rasyti, vakar prisiragavom nemazai vyno, ziuredami argentina-brazilija futbolo rungtynes. Placiau papasakos nuotraukos.
The town is amazing, but this time the photos below will tell the story. We had barbecue in hostel yesterday watching football match argentina-brazil and having some wine. Too lazy to write more.
Tilcara ir Purmamarca priklauso Jujuy provincijai ir jums padainuoti sutiko garsus provincijos atlikejas.
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